Tag Archives: Matterhorn

The Matterhorn in full view!!!

Day 3 was absolutely incredible! The Matterhorn finally showed itself – and it was definitely worth the wait!

It started cloudy again but the forecast was promising. But regardless of any stinkin’ forecast we were committed to going to the top of the mountain! We figured we’d spend some more time hiking with the hopes that the more time went by the likelier we’d see the mountain. Again we stopped at the tour office to figure out how to get to the trailhead. More bad news…the gondola to the top of the mountain was closed…due to wind. In all honesty I was severely disappointed! But – she said – the weather may change; it may be open later in the day. With positive thoughts we set out on our hike.

And the weather was clear – not clear enough to see the Matterhorn – but clear enough to see the other peaks and enjoy incredible views!

Today we chose the only direction we hadn’t been yet – towards the Matterhorn. We hiked alongside the valley and the Matterhorn Glacier Palace gondola to the sweet hamlet of Zmutt. In my eyes Zmutt is straight out of a fairytale. It was – probably obviously – closed for the season so it was deserted but one could picture the charm of the place anyway. It is a small village of tiny, closely huddled houses and barns and of course a hotel and bars for the apres ski crowd. It was adorable. The views toward and away were out of a picture book. This was by far my favorite spot of any hike we’ve done so far. And all along the Matterhorn – still behind clouds – lurked.

A view of most of Zmutt
A chalet at the edge of Zmutt
The sweet hamlet of Zmutt

The hike was amazing because of the views of the mountain peaks ahead and to the right, the views of the valley to the left, and the views of Zermatt itself behind. Everywhere you looked was something new and stunning!

After continuing on past Zmutt we came upon the ugliest building I’ve seen on our trip! Modern and made of concrete – awful. Well come to find out it is a hydroelectric power company that collects the water from a nearby damn and uses pumps to raise to an altitude of 2400 meters where it bores thought tunnels in the middle of the mountain to the Lac des Dix – a Swiss mountain lake. And I must say, the building itself was ugly but the view from the bridge over the Zmuttbach river was jaw dropping! Picture a deep valley with giant icicles raining down and huge evergreen trees draped in snow…

A river in the valley – huge icicles
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It was on to the ski hamlet of Furi and the location of the mountain station to get to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.

The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise was my number 1 thing to do in Zermatt so I was literally crossing my fingers that the wind had died down and the gondola opened. Thanks again to the wonderful tour operators – this time a lovely woman with a humongous smile – who said that it was open!!! She may have giggled when I clapped my hands like a small child! If nothing else I made her smile bigger 😀

Half of the trip was on the “old” Matterhorn Express part of which began running in 1962 and now reaches halfway to the Glacier Palace. We changed gondolas at Trockener Steg and boarded the new Matterhorn Glacier Ride – a new and extremely impressive cable car that opened just last month! Prior to the you could still reach the glacier palace via cable car but only via one of two 100-seat cabins.

The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is the highest cable at station in Europe and boasts over 425,000 visitors in 2017 alone. I can see why!

The ride to the top of the mountain is hard to describe. Gorgeous of course. But also scary and ominous. Seeing the massive mountain with wind whipping the snow around them was just impressive. And parts of the glacier itself – colored that unique blue and sporting scary deep crevasses – was awe inspiring.

Yes that’s the Matterhorn behind that cloud
Crevasses in the glacier

We finally reached the top. First thing to note – it is very, very, very windy and oh so cold! I mean you’re on a glacier right?!

We headed right for the Glacier Palace – a winter wonderland 15 meters beneath the glacier. It is a playground in the ice – for adults and children alike! Upon entry you walk through an ice tunnel – you’re walking through the glacier. At the end of the tunnel and exquisite ice sculptures of all types – from Jade Dragon to sculpted ice crystals to wolves howling mountainside. You can also sit on an ice throne and be the king or queen of Glacier Palace!

The ice tunnel in Glacier Palace
John and I in the ice tunnel
Jade Dragon
I am the ice queen!

We made a pit stop in the cafe on top of the mountain to thaw out a little and then made our way to the 360 degree viewing platform. At this point you’re at 12739.5 feet! And boy did it feel like it. The winds were so harsh you felt like they’d toss you off the mountain. And the snow and temperature…well it would be a quick visit.

We still hadn’t seen the entire Matterhorn! Don’t get me wrong, there have been stunning bits and pieces of it but I’d yet to see the famous peak that I’ve read so much about. So fingers crossed again! Perhaps needless to say buy that gorgeous beats of a mountain remained elusive. We did, however, see a lot of it. What was interesting to me was the fact that all of the other peaks were very clear but it seemed like the clouds hung onto the Matterhorn. Perhaps it’s a specific weather pattern – I’m not sure. But it made for stunning photos.

We were also able to see the famous Breithorn peak which is just a mere 400 meters smaller than the Matterhorn but just as impressive.

Breithorn mountain

And – so cool – we could even see Mount Blanc – IN FRANCE – from up here. Words can’t do it justice!

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At this point we were exhausted and frozen. It was back to the gondola to make our way down to Zermatt. As we traveled down – wait for it! – the clouds parted and there she was in all her glory. The Matterhorn! A clear, otherworldly view of a giant, beautiful, scary mountain. YES! Again I was like a kid in a candy store. Even John was speechless. I’m not sure there are enough words to describe seeing this. I don’t think there are. This is something you must EXPERIENCE!

THE MATTERHORN!!!

Drop the mic!

But wait there’s more. I’d been wanting to see the view of Zermatt from a rooftop terrace at the Omnia hotel – a 5-star hotel in the heart of the city. We decided to take advantage of the clear afternoon and head up. This is also a must do in my opinion. It’s a completely different perspective of the town and the gorgeous Matterhorn and definitely worth the time.

View of Zermatt town from the terrace of the Omnia

View of the Matterhorn from the terrace of the Omnia

Day 2 – 2.5 hours Zermatt to Sunnegga; 5 minutes Sunnegga to Zermatt

We woke to similar weather as day 1. There were glimpses, however, of the Matterhorn. It’s an elusive gigantic mountain – it will show you bits of it but not the entire majestic thing!

We would not be derailed! We both really wanted to go cross country skiing and had no problem doing it in the rain. We just weren’t sure the trails would be open. “No, no, not yet” according to the girl in the tourist office. Next plan – more hiking! This time to another mountain called Sunnegga. And it was possible to hike the entire way. Off we went.

This time beginning in the town of Zermatt and walking in a different direction than we’d been so far. I have always loved getting “lost” in anew place and although not lost we were able to see a part of Zermatt we had yet to see. After a left at “the church” we came upon the mountaineers cemetery tucked behind the church. It serves as a memorial to the climbers who have lost their young lives climbing the Matterhorn and the surrounding mountains. There are climbers from all over the world and their agree are mostly very young – 20 somethings. One gravestone, however, commemorates two guides who died of natural causes. They were the guides to lead the first climb up the Matterhorn. It included a party of seven, all of which reached the summit but only three returned to Zermatt in the end. In fact, the Matterhorn and surrounding mountains continue to be some of the deadliest peaks in the world.

Trying to be artistic in the climbers cemetery
Haunting grave marker

The cemetery was tragic and beautiful. One can only hope these young people died doing what they loved…

Onward to the trailhead. This time we’d be ascending the mountain. And the climb was just as beautiful as day 1’s but in a completely different way. We started hiking through the forest pines again, always able to see a brief glimpse of Zermatt behind and down from us. Eventually we walked right into the misty clouds and found ourselves on the edge of the mountain.

For the most part we were by ourselves. Since it was so cloudy – we were literally in the clouds! – it was the sounds that struck me. The sound of our boots in the slush; our breath; the sound of a waterfall on our right; snippets of superficial as well as meaningful conversations. These are the reasons why I love hiking!

The higher we went, the whiter the world became and the slush gradually turned to snow. We passed through more mountain “towns” – groups of little huts almost in the middle of nowhere – one of which is called Findeln, formerly Findelen. The timber houses were deserted and we wondered when they wouldn’t be. Well, apparently this village is world renowned for its mountain cuisine. The town is only accessible on foot – or ski! – as there are no other modes of transportation to get there. Fascinating!

The view from Chez Vrony – a famous mountain restaurant – on a clear day
My favorite wine cellar! In the middle of the climb outside a famous restaurant called Chez Vrony

As we ascended the mountain the whiteout conditions were interesting as so confusing! There were points when the sun would briefly break through – allowing us a stunning view of the peaks behind the clouds. And then literally within 10 seconds the clouds would reappear to mask the view. It was super cool!

Just a glimpse of the mountain when the sun peaked through

Again we got lost – but just a little! They really do a nice job marking the path with those hot pink poles but when you can’t see more than 50 feet ahead of you they can be hard to spot! Luckily John and I make a good team but I wouldn’t let him out of my site. I was afraid he’d walk into the whiteness and I wouldn’t be able to see him again. Perhaps a silly fear but a fear just the same.

We hugged and puffed and eventually got to Sunnegga – 2.5 hours of a very difficult hike. It’s like a fish story – the more we talk about it the steeper it becomes! So it was a relief to reach Sunnegga.

Sunnegga ski piste

Sunnegga is definitely made for families. Wolli’s park is specifically made for beginners learning how to ski. From here there are a multitude of athletic options – skiing, snowboarding and hiking in winter; swimming, hiking, biking and marmot-watching in summer!

We were achy and sweaty so decided to take the funicular ride back to Zermatt. This railway was built right into the rocks of the mountain and literally gets you back to Zermatt in 4.5 minutes! 2.5 hours to get up; 5 minutes to get back down!

Our afternoon and evening were spent exploring the sweet town of Zermatt. Shopping is the name of the game here. John has been glancing longingly and the multitude of Swiss watch shops so we decided to venture into the Omega shop. Let’s just say I felt like Pertty Woman when she was still in her working-girl clothes and trying to get service in an upscale shop! But Valerie was very friendly and helpful. John tried on a few stunning watches. He decided he liked one that was only $4500 with Valerie’s exclusive discount (what?!?!). Needless to say we left without a watch but mark my words – someday I will buy my husband his dream watch…

Zermatt’s Main Street – Bahnhofstrasse

I was craving a glass of local wine while sitting next to a cosy fireplace that we’d seen on our first night. It is called Chami Bar and was exactly what the doctor ordered! We snuggled up on a couch next to a roaring fire and sampled some more local wine – this time two whites called Johannisberg and Petite Arvine – both yummy of course but incomparable to the Coeur du Domaine from day 1.

We decided to wander off the Main Street to find somewhere to eat and came upon Chez Gaby! Since this is John’s daughter’s name we decided why not? It was a small, warm restaurant decorated for Christmas whose specialty was grilled meat. Ok! And our little corner table reminded me of the snugs in Ireland.

John in the snug at Chez Gaby

A day in Zermatt isn’t complete in our minds without chocolate! But since all of the chocolaterie’s were closed at this point it was a mad dash to Denner the local grocery. But we made it!

An evening of chocolate, rest and good books completed another amazing day in paradise…