It has been 697 days since I last wrote a blog post – thank you COVID-19. And even this one is premature as I am still sitting in the Charlotte airport waiting to board a flight to Munich and then to Athens. This is such a long time coming so fingers – and toes – crossed that we arrive and are let into the country.
We are scheduled to be in Greece for 14 glorious days – from Athens to Paros to Crete to Napflio and back to Athens to see John’s family. I am nervous and excited! And frankly very, very nervous to write again…and be vulnerable again. But from what I remember, I loved it so I’m hoping the love affair still exists two years later.
It’s been a rough year for everyone. John and I are blessed that our family is safe and healthy at this time. We have weathered the COVID storm and have come out on the other side. And in the interim, even given the significant stress on all of us, we have grown more resilient and more grateful for the incredible people in our lives. We have made – and lost – friends and strengthened the beautiful relationships that we are lucky to have in our lives.
A genius at work? Keyboard, coffee, wine in a plastic cup
And with that attitude I am beyond thrilled to be able to see the moon shine from the other side of the world. I will eat luscious foods without shame (I hope!), try new things with a big smile on my face and be happy to be uncomfortable in order to learn more about myself. Come with me! It will be amazing – I promise!
Budapest has often been called the City of Baths. There are so many warm spring waters underneath the city that Budapest has had great thermal baths for centuries and the bathing culture is still very lively. There are water sports held in the baths, as well as traditional aqua therapy. In recent years Hungarians have also adopted trance spa parties (sparties) where tourists and locals alike can experience the baths surrounded by music and lights. Both of us decided prior to our trip that we needed to experience these famous Budapest baths. Since these baths are open more hours than even the coffee shops(!), we decided to head there early to avoid some of the crowds.
Our amazing Budapest Jewish Quarter guide, Levi, recommended we go to the Lukács Thermal Bath. Luckily this was just 3k from our hotel. After checking in and getting our bracelets and renting an extremely small changing room we were ready to experience these amazing thermal healing baths.
Lukacs Bath Budapest
Lukács is one of the smaller baths in Budapest and until 2011 was experienced by locals only. Tourists have now found the place but it is still used primarily by locals. The bath is a historic indoor/outdoor thermal bath spa built in the 12th century. It is an amazing complex! Large and maze-like; you can definitely get lost. There are areas that seems to need a little TLC but the overall effect is amazing.
We headed to the thermal pools first since we weren’t ready for an outdoor pool at 8 am on a dreary Friday. This area of the baths was so cool! There were 4 pools and although the plaques were done in Hungarian, we could definitely read that the pools ranged in temperature from 26 degrees to 40 degrees Celsius. For us Americans, that’s 79 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit respectively. And each pool had a recommended time limit – we think. It was obviously recommended to stay in the warmer pools for just a short 5-7 minutes.
We made our way to all of the pools and tried to adhere to the time guidelines for each. It was such an interesting place to be. The thermal pools were deep in the complex and therefore not much natural light got in so it was a bit mysterious. And of course since the thermal waters are rich in healing natural chemicals, there’s a pervasive smell to the place. Not an unpleasant smell, however, but not a pleasant one either. And then there’s the sound of running water all around you. Which, to me, is one of the most relaxing sounds there is. So this was heavenly! The people all looked to be locals – I shouldn’t make that judgement – and most were well above our age. We assumed this was because we were there so early on a weekday morning.
I really try to pay attention to people when I travel – and make up stories about them I guess. Is it fair? I don’t know but it’s fun for me…There were the 2 best male friends huddled in a corner of the cool pool softly chatting. About business? Home? Who knows? And the female retiree who’s been coming to the baths on a daily basis for years – making her way from each pool – coolest to hottest – before taking a steam. And the tourist couple that stands out like a sore thumb and keeps trying to make eye contact with the locals 🙂
We decided to give the outdoor pool a shot as the weather had cleared and when in Budapest, right? There were actually 3 outdoor pools and we chose the one with a lazy river. A lazy river?! Awesome. It also had personal lounges where you could be mostly submerged as jets pounded you with water. All the while you could take in the beautiful sky above.
Personal lounges at Lucaks
There were a ton of things we wanted to do so we headed back just as all of the crowds were arriving at Lukács. After a brief stop for an overpriced coffee surrounded by Americans from a river cruise :), we made our way back over the Chain Bridge to the Pest side of Budapest. We’d decided that since we missed the general free city tour the previous day, we’d join it today. Since we had some time we decided to peruse the Spring Fair at Vörösmarty Square and also take advantage of the yummy smells coming from the booths there. Let me just say – this was the best food we’d had all vacation! John got a huge pork sausage with all the trimmings – potatoes and beautiful veggies – and it was the best sausage I’ve ever had (sorry, Mom!). And then I got a Hungarian version of a gyro which was a fresh-grilled flatbread, chicken that looked like it had been cooking for hours, tomatoes, onions and sour cream. I opted out of the sour cream but this thing was delicious as well! Ooh, it was so good…
Pork Sausage at the Spring Fair
We had some time before our tour so headed back to a coffee shop we’d seen the previous day. John had a hard time finding “good” coffee while in Prague and Budapest so we were hoping this place would do the trick. Café Frei boasts a menu of coffee drinks from all over the world – everything from a Bedouin Coffee from Africa to an Aztec Chili Espresso from South America. We went with a Guatemalan Hazelnut Latte for me and a Mexican Café con Leche for John. Finally – good coffee for my baby! Unfortunately it came with a side of self-directed anger. John had been pick-pocketed at the Spring Fair. They didn’t make off with anything other than some cash, thank goodness, but it still sucked. PSA for anyone reading this! These guys know what they’re doing and it can happen to the most seasoned of travelers so take any precautions necessary to protect yourself.
Angry after being pick-pocketed
Getting silly at Cafe Frei
We were two for three on the free tours we’d taken during the trip – now we made it two for four. It was a large group of mostly 20-somethings and, rather than discuss a lot of Budapest’s history and sights, our guide decided to discuss the best places to drink and how to prevent a hangover and how to get home from the ruin pubs in the middle of the night. Not our thing! It was a short tour – to say the least…
One of the memorials John and I both really wanted to see is called “Shoes on the Danube”. It is located on the Pest side of the Danube and just a short walk from the stunning Parliament building. This is a memorial to the Budapest Jews who were killed by fascist militiamen during World War II. They were brought to the edge of the Danube and ordered to take off their shoes before being shot into the river that would carry their bodies away. Some of the sculpted shoes were filled with fresh flowers; other surrounded by burned-down candles. It is a moving and sobering memorial and I’m very glad I got to see it.
Shoes on the Danube
I wanted to just walk around the city a bit and return to the Jewish Quarter but the weather turned so we popped into a cozy little restaurant advertising Hungarian wine. Konyha was another one of those places that you just happen upon when traveling. This place was incredible! While it poured rain just outside the large open windows, John and I sipped the most amazing Hungarian wines we’d had yet! We sat for hours and talked and posted online and just hung out. It was one of my favorite times of the whole trip. And the bill? For 4 glasses of wine? Just over $11. Ok!
Wine at Konyha
Still pouring, we literally ran right across the street to a little bistro called Castro after the famous Cuban dictator. Another awesome place! You know you’re in the right place when there’s a table of local older gentleman playing cards and drinking beer. The atmosphere and the service were just what we were looking for.
I really wanted to see some live music during this trip and we were finally going to make that happen. A lot of the churches and basilicas in both Prague and Budapest advertise nightly live music. And then there are the jazz clubs in Prague. We decided to attend an organ concert in the spectacular St. Stephens Basilica – a Roman Catholic basilica named in honor of the first King of Hungary. This church is amazing on the outside and even more incredible on the inside! It is so ornate – everywhere you look is something different and fascinating. And the way the church was lit made it mysterious and romantic and simply gorgeous. There is a pipe organ in the church that will just take your breath away.
St. Stephens Basilica
There were 3 musicians – an organist, a pipe organist and a trumpet player – as well as a soloist. The music was wonderful and the sound in this venue seemed to go right through you. Beautiful music, gorgeous surroundings and the man I love – it was the perfect ending to our final day in Budapest…
Freezing cold, we literally almost ran up the hill to our hotel. But not before taking in our last unforgettable view of the Parliament building lit up at night…
Today I’m headed back home – happily. It’s time. My stomach is still telling me its time to leave this beautiful country. But this morning has been the icing on the cake and ingrained in me why I love to travel alone. My roommate left for the airport in the middle of the night so – as much as I really liked sharing a room with her – I was finally able to spend some time alone. I needed to leave for the airport at 11 so it wasn’t much time but after having coffee and some bread at my homestay, I got to talk with my host Ana Maria and her brother in broken Spanglish for about an hour. We talked about our families, our careers, our travels, how we’ve tried to learn languages – both badly – and even about diarrhea (I know!). It was amazing! Every time I do these things I learn things about myself or I re-learn things about myself. I know that when I’m alone I’m forced to get out of my comfort zone and try to connect to people. I do that through Spanglish and smiles. Lots of smiles. And its invigorating and makes me want to book the next trip. There is really nothing like it! Those of you that have traveled solo know what I’m talking about. Those of you who don’t know, I just hope you try. Because it’s life changing. It turns a trip into a learning experience and then some. Said in a much more eloquent way,
“I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world”. Viva Cuba!
It’s the last full day in Cuba. It seems like its gone by way, way too fast. But I guess it’s almost time to get back to real life. We had to make our way by bus back to Havana via Santa Clara where we’d see the memorial to “Che” Guevera – who was born Argentinian but a huge figure in the Cuban revolution. He was very close to both Fidel and Raul Castro but ended up being killed in an ambush in Bolivia when he was in his 40s. Cubans think very very highly of Che which was evident in the amount of tourists waiting to get into the memorial. It was deathly hot and very humid and almost an hour wait but as in the past, worth it. The memorial is so well done. You enter a lovely windowless room with thriving fauna and soft lighting. Che was killed with 29 other revolutionaries in 1967 in an attempt to spur an uprising in Bolivia. Although he was killed in 1967 his remains were not given to Cuba until 1997. Construction of the memorial, however, started in 1982.
Che Memorial, Santa Clara
There are small memorials to all of the fallen soldiers on one wall. Che sits in the middle. It was interesting to me that only their first names were affixed next to their memorials. There was also a red carnation next to each one. Apparently on their birthdays they hang a white carnation to signify the day. At the other end of the memorial is the eternal flame dedicated to Che. It was sad and moving. Then you proceed to an area of the memorial that houses many photos of Che, from birth through death, with his family and with his friends and soldiers. There are also artifacts that belonged to him – his machete, belt, journal, letters he wrote to his wife(s) and the Castros. An absolutely fascinating – and admittedly, a very handsome – man.
Back to the bus for the final 4-hour trip to Havana. At this point me and this bus are NOT friends so I was not looking forward to it. But again, it’s the only way to get to where I want to be so…Fortunately, Tony loaded a movie for us. The movie is titled Fresa y Chocolate – strawberry and chocolate. It opened in 1993 and apparently signified a shift in the ways Cubans think and deal with homosexuals. It was a very sweet movie about a severely heterosexual man who was also a member of the young Communist party and the deep friendship he makes with a young flamboyant homosexual man in Cuba in 1979. It was interesting to see the extreme discrimination of homosexuals in Cuba just a little over 30 years ago. According to Tony, the discrimination was extreme and included not just verbal abuse but also physical. He said, however, that no longer exists and homosexuals are treated the same as every other Cuban.
Fresa y Chocolate
La cena ultimato – our last dinner together – was at a local Havana paladar called el idilio. We sat as a group under the stars amidst a beautiful breeze. As per usual, we ate and drank like crazy people and laughed a lot. There were toasts to both Tony our driver and Tony our guide and it was sentimental. These are sad moments for me. I feel like I forge a bond with these people over 9 days and countless miles and stories and sicknesses. They become a temporary family and it is always hard to say goodbye. And even more so for the guide, who shares himself intimately with the group. He was vulnerable and honest with us and there are no words that can adequately thank someone who does that. And the driver – another Tony – spoke no English but was beyond kind in his (Spanish) words and actions when I was sick.
I know I’ve said it countless times but it’s because its so important – these people are the reason I travel. And in this case they are so extremely different from me – the way they grew up, their schooling, their jobs and salaries and families, their thoughts about their government and what they can actually say about the governent. It’s beyong special to me to know about that.
Hotel Nacional, Havana, Cuba
Malecon, Havana, Cuba
We ended an amazing night at the beautiful Hotel Nacionale for an over-priced mojito, some local Cuban music and views of the teeming Malecon in the background. A beautiful ending to a beautiful trip.
Today was one of my favorite days! You know how when you feel better after having been so sick that you feel like you can do anything as long as you’re healthy? That was today for me. I finally – FINALLY – ate some food and drank some coffee for breakfast at my lovely casa particulare in Trinidad, on the southern coast of Cuba. It is a small Spanish colonial settlement town where you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. There are more horses on the original cobblestone streets than cars. It was deemed a UNESCO world heritage site in 1988 and since then the tourists have come in droves. And I can see why. This is a charming, romantic place with it’s architecture and history. The heart of the place is the charming Plaza Meyor – the main square. There are cobblestone steps here where people either sit at tables or just hang out on the steps to have a beer or dance to local musicians who play on the stage. The square is surrounded by historic buildings where people rent out their front rooms for sellers to hawk their wares. So there is a ton of shopping but it’s not in your face like in other areas. And people aren’t begging you on the street to come into their stores. There looks to be very nice art here as well.
Trinidad, Cuba
First on our itinerary was to visit Parque el Cubano, a short drive from Trinidad, to where we could hike to a waterfall and then go swimming in the watering hole. Trinidad seems be be considerably hotter than the other cities I’ve been to (that I can remember!) so a swim sounded absolutey amazing. The park was gorgeous. I may be turning more hippie as the days go by but it was a relief to be away from the city and the sounds and the smells and bask in fresh air and natural beauty. And we were one of the first groups on the trail so it wasn’t busy. The walk to the waterfall was only 3.6km so we had a nice, leisurely hike and then came up on the Javira Waterfall, which dropped only about 50 feet or so but was just stunning. It dropped from a cliff under which was a cave. I coudn’t wait to get in. A little cliff diving to get into the water? OK! It felt amazing and the water was cool and refreshing and oh so clean. I swam into the cave where you could see all of the beautiful and slighly creepy rock formations and the bats that were hanging out within them. It was seriously cool. In fact, it’s the highlight of my trip so far. Just beautiful. We hung in and around the water for a while just getting some sun and relaxing and talking before we headed back to Trinidad.
On the trail to Salto de Javira
The waterfall at Salto de Javira
Lunch! And boy was I hungry – which I thought was a very good sign of my health. We went to a “famous” paladar in the old town called San Jose where, guess who I saw? Michael and his tour group that I met in Havana on Saturday last week. Small world, huh? I knew we’d be in the same cities so was hoping to see them again. I felt kinda like the mayor – sitting at restaurant and seeing some old friends. And…the pizza was fantastic. I know, pizza in Cuba. But yes, I’d been craving it!
San Jose Restaurant Trinidad
We were given some free time to wander in Trinidad before dinner and the town is so charming. But, man, is it HOT. And it has no shade. What they call it here in English is “in the shadow”. So a guide will not say to get in the shade, they’ll say to get in the shadow. I was finally able to find some local, lovely art and some gifts for friends that didn’t include sinning (i.e. NOT cigars or booze).
As you walk this town you are inundated by it’s personality – or what I feel is it’s personality – and it has a distinct smell as well. It’s personality is slow and hot and sexy and romantic and thirsty (for more than just drinks). It’s stuck in the late 1800s and resisting the need to move forward. The scents of the city reflect this. You smell exhaust from the tour buses and classic cars, fragrant aromas of freshly cooked bread and pizza and more traditional dishes, sweat and sunscreen from the sunburned tourists and sometimes the droppings of horse and dogs. It is a heady mix – sometimes a good one and sometimes a bad, depending on your step. Regardless, it’s a city that will stay with you, one way or the other. And it is just filled with tourists. The locals you run into are in your homestay or serving at one of the restaurants, bars or shops.
Our evening was spent on the beach at Playa Alcon – the nicest beach in the southern part of Cuba. Cuba is known for it’s beautiful white sand beaches but those are in the north. This beach was….nice. It’s not the most beautiful I’ve seen but I’ve seen some amazing beach. This was white sand and ocean as far as the eye could see and that, to me, is enough. Some of us swam. I took advantage of the chance to swim in the ocean since I didn’t get to do that in the Bay of Pigs. The water is so, so clear! You can see down to your feet and some of the creepy things under the water (lots of sea urchins – ouch!). And literally you could see to the edge of the horizon and watch as the orange sun began to slowly dip into the sea. Simply beautiful and peaceful and calm and religious.
The sunset over Playa Ancon
We had a lovely picnic on the beach. Tony had hired a local band to play for us. Ok, the band was 2 young Cubans but they were amazing. Guitar and bongos and voices and that’s all they needed. Tony joined in playing the guiro (a Latin American percussion instrument that produces a rasping noise) and even our driver Tony joined in playing the claves (another Latin American percussion instrument that produces a bright clicking noise). It was an unforgettable time. The sun setting, surrounded by new friends, eating delicious food and drinking various Cuban cocktails. Unfortunately, my body was not ready to accept any form of alcohol but I did try Trinidad’s traditional Conchanchurra, which is an intoxicating mix of rum, lime juice and honey. So yummy!
Tony on the claves, Tony on the guiro and our own personal band
Beautiful red snapper served on Playa Ancon
We’d been hearing about the one thing in Trinidad that you could not miss – a local disco called Disco Alaya. It is a dance club….in a cave! Its something not to be missed so some of us made a stop there after returning from the beach.
The packed steps outside Casa de la Musica, Trinidad
Ok, so I set a few ground rules for myself when I turned 30. Two of them where 1. not to stand in a line to get into a bar – it can’t be that good! and 2. not to pay a cover charge. I have broken the rules a few times and for good reason and this was to be one of those times. We stood in a line for at least 30 minutes and then paid 5 CUCs AND had to check our purses (WTF – where do you put your money when you’re wearing a dress?!). But off we went. And in a word (ok, two) – worth it! We walked down about 30 steps or so and crossed over and looked up into this open cavern. Stalactites hanging down, jaggety rocks, odd formations and of course – a dance floor. It was wicked cool. How they hung up big screen TVs for music videos and a DJ booth I’ll never know but the atmosphere was on the verge of explosive – like it couldn’t wait to get there. The music was way too loud. The dancing was called reggaeton – which “blends musical influences of Jamaicandancehall and Trinidadiansoca with those of Puerto Rico, such as salsa, bomba, Latin American hip hop, and electronica” and is sung in Spanish. And the drinks were cheap and weak and way too small. It had a lot of charm. Picture Cubans and tourists in skimpy clothing dancing and singing as if no one was watching. Some couples hooking up in the corners and your senses inundated with sound and smell and sweat. Those of you that know me know that this is not my scene but I am so glad I went. I didn’t stay long but the fascinating mix of people and ages, the sensory overload and being able to see one of my tour mates dance with two local women and a transvestite was so worth the money!
I can’t even write about the next 2 days because I was so sick that all I could focus on was that. I swore that would never happen to me but there you go. I wanted my Mommy. I know we were at the Bay of Pigs and people swam there but that’s about all I can say. No, I can say that the kindness of people – even complete strangers – definitely came through. From a nice man in the local paladar setting me in a comfy chair under a fan to people carrying my bags and letting me lean on them and offering me medicine and water. It meant the world to me and helped me get through those 2 days. Now I’m just hoping to be able to eat again!
Day 4 was a full day spent exploring Viinales and it’s surrounding area. I got a small amount of free time before we all met where I parked myself on a bench in the main square and wrote. I do have to say, while I’m THOROUGHLY enjoying this tour and the super cool people on it, I need my alone time as well.
Vinales
Super-cool rock formations in Vinales
We were on and off the bus a lot today, seeing incredible views of the valley and some amazing limestone rock formations. We stopped by a local tabacco farm to learn about how they make Cuban cigars. The owner of the farm was hysterical. He spoke enough good English to have us all laughing. Surrounded by young tabacco plants, we went into the barn where the leaves are dried. You can’t imagine the yummy smell in there! Tabacco and dirt and humidity. It was great! While in there, he sat and showed us how he splits the leaves and rolls the cigars. It literally took him about 2 minutes to make one. Then he shared it with the group. Finally I got to try my first Cuban cigar. Do I like it? Eh, it’s ok. I love the smell, I’m not a huge fan of the taste.
A young tobacco field
A lesson on how to roll a cigar
We were then invited into the farmers home where we had some beautiful coffee and, of course, a shot of rum. Rum is definitely the theme of this trip! It was very nice to visit with this family because we could communicate and appreciate someone’s sense of humor. And I got to buy cigars for family and friends. You know who you are….
Me and the tobacco farmer
In the afternoon, Tony took us to a friend’s casa for a salsa lesson. Yay! More dancing! What a lovely home this was with a charming covered back patio where we danced. Since it’s the theme and the men needed it just to get onto the dance floor, there may have been more rum involved.
Finally we were off to another local farm where we were to have a cooking lesson and then dinner. This farm was on the side of a cliff so a different type of beautiful view. Absolutey stunning and the breeze looking out over the valey felt like silk on your skin.
Why not make fried plantains with a beer bottle?
We were taught how to make sauce for dipping bread, rice and beans, pork stuffed with garlic and orange juice (YUM) and friend plantains.
They cook everything on a charcoal stove outdoors. The don’t have electric stoves on these farms. It’s about a 5 foot long slab of concrete with an impression in the middle where they put the charcoal. Then they use handmade metal grills on which they place the pots and pans. Its very impressive and again, the smells are mouth watering. So we al stood around watching the cook work her magic as we sipped wine and sampled her offerings.
Tony helping our cook on their charcoal “stove”
We sat down for dinner at a table right on the cliff. It was a long dinner and we ended up playing games and laughing and telling stories as the sun went down and we filled our bellies. Another amazing meal and experience.
Our table for dinner…
More beautiful Vinales – the view from our table
Of course, next was dancing – again at the lone club. This time the boys had the balls – and a bit of liquid courage – to get out there with us. We closed down the bar. They had to kick us out. Ha! When was the last time that happened to me?! I honestly can’t recall!
Today started out with a tour of Ernest Hemingway’s mansion. He spent a ton of time in Cuba – as in Key West – writing. I’ve never been a huge fan of Hemingway (don’t judge!) but his mansion was fascinating. Mostly because of the oppulence and wealth you could see there in relation to the rest of the houses in Cuba. He had private tennis courts and a pool. His furry friends are even resting there in their own graveyard.
The room where Hemingway wrote
We then checked out Fusterlandia. Jose Fuster is a local Cuban artist. He is still alive and decided to start a community project in his neighborhood. He started adorning the neighborhood with tile mosaics. So all of the entrances to the houses on the streets are covered in tiny mosaic tiles, including the doctor’s office. The style pays homage to Barcelona’s Gaudi. It is remarkable! Eventually you come upon Fuster’s residence which literally looks like a playground done entirely in mosaics. It is 3 levels – indoor and outdoor – and every spot is covered in tile. He still lives and works there but there are very few areas of the residence that are restricted to visitors.
Me at Fusterlandia
We then visited another local community called Las Terrazas. This small, green village was built as part of a government reforestation project. This place was breathtakingly beautiful. It had a small man-made lake surrounded by walking paths and hiking trails and mini huts where people can spend time together out of the blazing sunshine. The “terraces” advance up the hill to where a stunning hotel – Hotel Moka – sits. It is all open air and cool breezes and amazing views. I imagine it’s just tourists who stay here as the cheapest room is 90 CUCs/night.
A view of Las Terrazas
Hotel Moka – Las Terrazas
Tony had been promising us some basic rice and beans for lunch. And that we’d stop along the way. I seriously thought that we’d stop and have a picnic lunch but we pulled off the highway and drove on a dirt road for less than a mile to Restaurant Don David. OMG, another amazing meal of “rice and beans”. Of course we did have rice and beans as well as fish, chicken, pork, lamb, vegetables, fruit…Anyone who says the food in Cuba is tasteless and boring is just plain wrong! The sauces are unique and flavorful, the meats rich and succulent and the fruits and vegetables fresh and ripe beyond words.
Restaurant Don David
We were back on the bus for a couple of hours on our way to Vinales where we’ll spend two nights. The bus rides – although not my favorite part of the trip for sure! – are where we get to pick Tony’s mind about life in Cuba.
We learned about how the people find loopholes to get around government restrictions in daily life. I’ve already written about how little salary even a highly educated person makes. So what the people do is search for jobs with “perks” – also called “side effects” in translated English and said with a grin. So there’s the receptionist who sells coffee to the patients that come to see the doctor. There’s the attorney that drives a taxi on the weekends. These people take any opportunity they see to make a better life for themselves. It’s admirable.
We learned Cubans still have ration cards given to them by the government for specific food staples like rice, eggs, milk, bread and meat. So they are only allowed to buy the food that the government chooses to sell to them. They are given additional rations for children, the elderly and pregnant. Every Cuban must register with a local supply store and obtain their rationed food from there. A family gets 1 ration card per year. 1 per family, not per person. It is difficult and expensive to buy food outside of the ration store and sometimes Cubans simply don’t have enough food.
All news transmitted to the Cubans is “good” news. They don’t ever get to hear – on local television – about anything negative happening in the country. It is either spun to take on a positive tone or not discussed. For example, last year President Obama negotiated a deal with Raul Castro to exchange 5 Cuban prisoners who were caught spying in America for 1 American prisoner held here. Apparently this was shown as a huge win for Cubans via the media. They weren’t given any back-information about the negotiations. On that same vein, advertising is not allowed in Cuba. The only billboards you see depict the strength and power of the government. You see Raul and Fidel Castro’s face everywhere. In fact, we got to see locals watching a baseball game at dinner. During game timeouts or inning changes, they show videos of past revolutionary events or current images of the regime. No ads and nothing negative.
We made our way to Valle de Vinales – which is in the Western part of Cuba and known for its dramatic landscape. The countryside consists of mogotes – which are craggy, flat-topped hills made of limestone. These hills are unlike anything I’ve seen. Not like mountains because of the lack of hard edges. They look more like someone dropped dirt and rocks onto the Earth and left it to figure itself out. The town itself consists of just 3 streets, 2 more than were here just a mere decade ago. The main drag contains multiple restaurants and souvenir stores in brightly colored buildings – each one boasting an outdoor terrace perfect for cocktails and people watching. Unfortunately, it is definitely a tourist town.
We got to Vinales just in time for the sunset – one of the best I’ve ever seen! And I’ve seen quite a few. To watch God at work, we went to a local eco-farm called Finca Agroecologica. There were rows and rows of fresh-growing vegetables in every direction you looked. It was so impressive. I got to watch the beautiful sun drop behind the random, oddly cool mogotes. It was outstanding! These are the moments I live for. These are the places I find peach and religion…
Beautiful sunset – Finca Agroecologica
A view of the restaurant – Finca Agroecologica
Finca Agroecologica – see the little lookout hut in the top left of the photo?
Me on the farm
The farmer who owns the land also has a restaurant where he serves the food he grows and the animals he raises. Here you are surrounded by all of the beauty I just described while you bask in the smells and tastes of fresh vegetables and meat. We all sat down at a table on the terrace and were immediately brought what Tony called “Stress relievers”. Let me just say, none of us are stressed but even less so after having this drink! It is a mixture of coconut milk, fresh coconut and herbs – all from the garden. Then they set down a full bottle of rum. You can add as much or as little to the drink as you like. Very dangerous and very, very tasty. Can I just say that our table when through 3 full bottles of rum!
Shortly after that, I had to move out of the way as 2 of the farmers brought us our main protein. A full pig who had been roasting for 4 hours. It was awesome! He had a big ‘ole knife stuck right out of the center of him and looked delicious! Tony had the pleasure of carving him. Talk about fresh right?! They also brought fresh raw vegetables and fresh cooked vegetables and fish and chicken and soup and rice and beans. That was the most packed table I’ve seen table for all of the food and drink! Tony told us to not feel bad about not eating everything as it’s just their custom to keep bringing food to the guests. It was so delicious! Again, I don’t know why multiple people have said not to have high expectations for the food in Cuba but I have to say that what I’ve had has been scrumptious. YUM!
OMG!
Tony excited to carve the pig
What a lovely night so far! We really have a good group of all ages and stages of life. We all seem to be getting along like long lost friends and just having a fantastic time together. This is one of those nights that I live for! Beauty in the land surrounding me and, more importantly, in the PEOPLE surrounding me!
A few of us wanted to take advantage of the nightlife in Vinales. Ok, maybe I shouldn’t call it that. It is a sweet, SMALL tourist town filled with restaurants but there’s only 1 dance club 🙂 Who cares as long as it’s a good one? And I was ready to DANCE!
Off we went to the lone dance club in Vinales and I loved every moment. It was all open air with a large dance floor surrounded by tables and a long bar at one end. When we went in there was an amazing Cuban band playing salsa and bachata music. Unfortunately none of the men in the group were ready – i.e. drunk – enough to dance but Tony, our group leader, came back shortly after that so I got to dance with him. Which was amazing! Again, again, again, I need to dance. On a very regular basis! One of the guys on our tour said “Aimee, this is the happiest I’ve seen you!” Yes, that’s the truth. We danced for quite a while, in between a Cuban singing some bad music and some worse American music and a bunch of teenagers showing off their dance skills to the crowd for tips. But it was all worth it to dance with Tony – so, so, so fun!
Day 2 started with the yummiest juice I’ve ever had – a frothy mixture of guava and papaya made by my guesthouse. Then we were off on our first planned excursion – a walking tour of Old Havana. This was something I’ve been looking forward to for months! Old Havana is the city center and the former positions of the city walls form it’s outline.
Alejandro was our local guide during the tour. He was fascinating to talk to. By education – which, it should be noted – is free in a communist country – he is a criminal attorney. He has a wife who also practices law and a 7 year old son. When the country embraced more tourism, he was finally able to use his entrepreneurial spirit to earn some more money. So he leads tours one day a week and drives cars for the tourists. In his “normal” job he makes 20 CUCs a month. That’s 20 American dollars! A MONTH! He says he makes more money during these tours than he ever could make working as an attorney. Interesting…I know for a fact that he made over 20 CUCs just in tips from our tour alone. Because he can supplement his income so considerably, he loves doing tours and he loves the throngs of tourists entering Cuba. He’s also looking forward to the cruise ships that will be starting to come to Havana in just months.
Old Havana is what I pictured it to be – quaint, eye-droppingly beautiful, sad, in varying stages of decay and bustling. But, I had no idea how many tourists would already be here. I can’t even imagine how it will be when Americans really start to come here.
Immediately upon entering the city, I got to see Cuban children and teens dressed up in dresses and suits practicing their dances. Apparently they do this every weekend and it is similar to what you’d see in the states – children not at all focused on what they’re supposed to do as their parents rile them in. And then there are the teens fully made up and looking like someone forced them to be there. It was nice for me to see that this section of the city is filled with Cuban life – it doesn’t just serve the tourists.
Old Havana
The buildings in Old Havana are simply lovely – built in the baroque and neoclassic style. The buildings fell into severe disrepair in the late 20th century because of a lack of funds for upkeep during the revolution. Some of them continue to be very shabby but in 1982, Unesco declared this area a world heritage site and the money for restoration began. We wandered around the cobblestone streets and squares learning tidbits for Alejandro. One of the interesting things and perhaps it should have been obvious but weapons are illegal here unless you’re part of the police or military. You will go to prison if you have them. And unlike other areas of Cuban law where the people “find a way” around it, people simply do not have weapons here. He actually said that even if you’re a member of the police, you are not legally allowed to shoot anyone – even in self defense – unless whoever is trying to hurt you also has a gun. So if you’re police and someone attacks you with a machete, you’d better be prepared to run!
This little guy “belongs” to the government. They take care of him – making sure he gets food and meds
The government has embraced tourism in Cuba. They pay to have entertainers in the streets. We saw bands and individuals playing instruments. There were dancers and a group on stilts. Apparently the government pays these individuals to entertain but, of course, they make the majority of their income in tips. And Cubans come to old town as well. Alejandro said he brings his son here. Not often, because he can’t afford it, but because his son loves it.
Stiltwalkers in Old Havana
We got to go into the train that the president used to ride in during his very long term. A friend in the group called it “Air Force One for Cubans”. An appropriate name. But it was cool to see where the “first family” ate and slept and made decisions back in the revolutionary days.
The tour ended with a cocktail on a rooftop bar in one of the beautiful old hotels in Old Havana. There’s a room in the hotel where Ernest Hemingway used to stay. I’m getting used to these rum drinks. This one was called Ambros Mundos and was what? Rum and juices of course!
After our tour of Old Havana we took the bus to see different parts of the city. For those that know me, this is not the way I like to see things. But, per my pre-trip intentions, I’m going with the flow and staying present and appreciating things 🙂 We drove by the U.S. Embassy where the American flag recently started flying. This building has been around for decades but until last year didn’t even have a sign on it. The drive toward the building is interesting. In front of the building are 150 massive flag poles. The story behind these flag poles is fascinating: when the embassy was closed, it was demoted to only an interests section, and the diplomats remaining there were forbidden to issue public statements or communicate with Cubans in general. To get around this, in 2006 they set up an electronic billboard across 25 windows near the top of the building on which “subversive” messages were posted. One of which included Abraham Lincoln’s quote: “No man is good enough to govern another without his consent.” In response, Fidel and his regime raised 150 black flags to obscure the billboard from view from any angle. They no longer raise the flags and the electronic billboard is gone , but it’s interesting to see how the government works to keep its people under it’s thumb.
We went to the Plaza de la Revolution next. This square is Havana’s largest and is the scene of important public events and political rallies. On the two ugly buildings housing the offices of the Ministries of the Interior and Communications are steel memorials of two of the most important, deceased heroes of the revolution – Ernesto “Che” Guevera and Camilo Cienfuegos. Across the street sits a humongous memorial to Jose Marti who is a national hero in Cuba for dedicating his life to the promotion of liberty and political independence for Cuba from the Spanish in the 19th century. It is the tallest structure in Havana and features Marti in the famous Thinker pose. Fidel Castro is not yet memorialized in the square because he is still alive.
In front of the memorial to “Che” Guavera – Plaza de la Revolution
We continued on to the wacky and slightly perverse Callejon de Hamil which is an alley where local artist Salvador Gonzalez has adorned every space with murals and sculptures inspired by the religion called Santeria. Santeria resulted from African Americans slaves in Cuba combining their religion with Roman Catholicism. Their customs include a trance and divination system for communicating with their ancestors, animal sacrifice, and sacred drumming and dance…you can see how the art of such a religion would be a bit crazy. Let’s just say one of the places to rest your weary bones is in a former bathtub now called art. I loved this little avenue – it had a wild and no-one-cares attitude! The art was al-encompassing, the music was blaring and Cubans were perched carelessly over brilliant pieces of art. Freakin’ cool.
Callejon de Hamil
Callejon de Hamil
Our evening ended with a wonderful dinner at a local Paladar called Karma. Perhaps obviously, the paladar focuses on the meaning behind the word and has some Indian tendencies. The restaurant is owned by a local WOMAN. Apparently this is pretty rare and people have really tried to support and grow women-owned businesses. It was packed so they were definitely succeeding. In fact, according to Tony, there was a famous Cuban producer waiting for a table when we left.
We were off to the famous canon ceremony that takes place in the The Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña. The fort was built around 1774 by the Spaniards to control the access of the Havana Port. The canon ceremony takes place every single night at 9 pm. There is some pomp and circumstance performed by Cuban soldiers with guns and fire and a huge canon! At about 10 minutes after 9, they light the canon and the sky lights up and the people in the crowd – including me – jump! The ceremony symbolizes the times when the Cubans had a curfew and prior to that – when the gates to Old Havana was to be closed. The curfew was at 9 pm so when they heard the canon blast, Cubans knew that it was time to return to their homes. Obviously there is no longer a curfew but the ceremony remains and even locals come out to it. There were many, many families with children vying for a spot to see the canon blow!
Day 1 in Cuba did not disappoint and I already feel like I’ve made some amazing new friends.
There was a significant amount of time spent in airports today – combined with some panic when my bag didn’t appear for 90 minutes – I won’t go into those inconsequential things. But, in true traveling Aimee fashion (man, I like her so much more than non-traveling Aimee!), I met some amazing people on the flight from Miami as well as in the airport. Perhaps that just happens over sweat and lost-bag panic but I love it just the same. I met Michael Chinnici who runs a tour group called Photo Workshop Adventures that specializes in worldwide tours where the group focuses on arts and photograpy. He’s been to Cuba many times and was sweet enough to offer his wisdom on the place. And of course I peppered him with questions because…what an amazing job he has! He said he started this company about 8 years ago because he had a passion for travel and for photography. So this is one of those “follow your passion and the money will come” stories. And he has been to some incredible places and…gotten paid for it! I asked him for a job 🙂 I also got to meet his coworker Ena and some of the Americans on his tour – one of which did the amazing job of finding my almost long-lost bag. We exchanged information in the hopes that I’d hook up with their group on my free night in Havana. It was a wonderful beginning to the trip and made me SO hopeful that I’ll meet similarly fascinating people here.
The smells and sounds assault you when you leave the arrivals terminal. Throngs of people make more noise than you ever thought they could – all speaking so rapidly in Spanish that I could only catch one or two words here and there. And it is HOT. And sweaty. And either Cubans wear a lot of cologne or my nose is becoming as sensitive as Candace’s. Luckily I easily found my taxi and we were on the road to my guesthouse. Immediately I saw the countless classic American cars Cuba is known for. And the smell of exhaust is overpowering. On the road fresh air was not to be found. But the cars??? AMAZING.
After just a short trip I was brought to my guesthouse. I am staying with a family here in Cuba. When tourism became big in Cuba – about 20 years ago (it’s been open to American for only a hear and a half) – families – if they had a big enough house and a private bathroom for guests – were given the opportunity to open their homes up to tourists as a way to make some additional money. I actually prefer to travel this way as it gives me a chance to learn more about the Cuban way of life. And, of course, practicar me Espanol. The homes in the neighborhood I’m staying in are absolutely massive. And in varying stages of decay. The have gorgeous architecture and huge picturesque balconies but they have just not been kept up. Cubans have not been able to buy or sell real estate until 3 and a half years ago. They have acquired their homes by any number of previous generations and since you couldn’t buy a home, children live with parents and grandparents. It’s certainly a different way of life. And the home that I’m staying in is one of the massive one that haven’t been kept up. It’s perfectly fine – there’s a bed and a shower with hot water but, again, it’s interesting to see the way of life here.
I didn’t expect my roommate to already be here but Sallie was just getting ready to head out. Sallie is from New York and just recently purchased a brownstone in Brooklyn. Just tying that sounds cool! She works as a grant writer for the performing arts – in NY! Totally cool. Anyway, one of my first questions to her was, “Can I join you”? We wandered the neighborhood of Vedado which is a mile + away from Old Havana. We were on the lookout for a CADECA (a money exchange) and some traditional Cuban food.
Havana’s Neighborhoods
Sallie is also a petite redhead so we had to get used to “piropos” – which is what Americans call flirting. Linda hermosa – pretty lady – with a couple of kissy faces and a lot of stares. Me? I like it! All flattery is good flattery and when you don’t speak the language and therefore don’t know if they’re saying something inappropriate, I’m all good! It was just fascinating – I guess the two of us are just so different from what Cubans see on a day-to-day basis…
We found a sweet outdoor paladar where we had some lunch. Paladares are privately owned restaurants; not run by the govenment. The have been legal in Cuba since the early 1990s but only in 2010 were goverment restrictions on the restaurants removed. Until then they were only allowed to seat 12 people and had to be run out of a Cuban house and all of the workers were required to be family members.
My first paladar
I ordered whatever sounded good in Spanish – cerado was the only descriptive word I knew – and ended up with a lovely plate of grilled pork on the bone. And of course I had my first local beer – it’s called Crystal and tasted like heaven on a hot and humid day in a beautiful new country.
After a nice siesta, we met up with the rest of our tour group for a brief introduction. Our local guide, Tony, gave us a restaurant recommendation and Sallie’s friend, Anne, had heard about another place we should go called Fabrica de Arte Cubano (FAC). We decided to hit FAC first. FAC an avant-garde art co-op that opened in 2014 to promote the interchange of artistic ideas and happenings.
Fabrica de Arte Cubano
OMG what an amazing place! Of course the first thing we did was get the typical Cuban cocktail () made by a beautiful Cuban man who spoke no English. Who needs it, right? This was an amazing drink! It tasted like the best Kool-Aid ever and went down way too quickly. We retreated to an outdoor area that was decorated with tires that served as cocktail tables and a shipping container as the bar.
Sallie, Anne and Me – first rum drink at FAC
The gallery itself was phenomenal. It was room after room after room after theater after rooftop gallery filled with local Cuban art. Every space – and artist – was so radically different and beautiful and creepy and touching and happy and scary. There were religious-themed photos depicting locals with angel’s wings. There were nude photos depicting all sizes, colors and backgrounds of Cuban women. There were photos depicting a historical Havana overlaid with modern Havana. There were abstract paintings and fashion. I loved and hated everything I saw! We got to meet one of the artists and just wandered around being inundated with the arts scene here in Havana.
We then moved to a restaurant recommended by our guide called El Cocinero. It has 2 levels of outdoor seating in a beautifully landscaped setting. We sat on the rooftop deck and started with some Chilean white wine and appetizers. Dinner included more wine, gossip and wonderful food. I told Sallie and Anne that I felt like one of the cool kids. We had an evening of wine and food and art and shared stories in such lovely and fascinating place filled with beautiful people. Being one of the cool kids might be as nice as it’s cracked up to be!
El Cocinero
Stories from a newly married, adventure seeking woman looking to see the world.
