Category Archives: Portugal 2019

Mastering the Miroduoro

May 8, 2019 Aimee Couturier Leave a comment

We headed back to Lisbon on a very early train to take advantage of our last day in Portugal. No rest for the weary, once we arrived we quickly headed out again. There were two more sights that I really wanted to take in before leaving – the Tower of Belem and Mosteiro dos Jeronimos – the Jeronimos Monistary.

The Belem district of west of Lisbon by about 5 miles. Since we needed to keep our track record of 10+ miles a day, we decided to hoof it there. On the way we made a quick detour to the “must-eat” Timeout market in Cais do Sodre.

The Timeout market – yes, named after the magazine – boasts stall after stall of traditional and not so traditional Portuguese food and drinks. There are 35 food and drink stalls. You can take your pick from typical bacalhau (cod), pasteis de nata, sardines or you can feast on delights from other countries – including pizza and a good old fashioned burger.

It was a madhouse in there! It was lunchtime so it makes sense but it was just packed. I am, however, glad we went. We stumbled upon Oh Prego da Peixaria – a stall that sells one of Portugal’s national sandwichies. A prego is a beef sandwich that can be served in bread (with mustard or hot sauce) or in a platte (with fries, rice and fried egg). We ordered Prego Motard – “A Kind of Burger”. It was a burger covered with chorizo and fried egg and it was oh so good. The place was cool but very, very touristy.

Again taking the road less traveled we began our trip to Belem – passing by the docks and the trains where almost no people ventured. Often we thought we were lost but as usual we found our way and ended up fighting the wind along the Tejo estuary between the unbelievable Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument and the Torre de Belem.

The Padrão dos Descobrimentos – the Monument to the Discoveries – is a massive sculpture made of limesone brought from neighboring Sintra that sits directly on the river. The sculpture depicts the front of a ship used in early Portuguese exploration with a figure of Henry the Navigator at the head. On either side are 16 figures (33 total) representing figures from the Age of Discovery. The sculpture is breathtaking – especially against the deep blue sky and deep green Tagus river.

You can see the Torre de Belem come into view as you stroll away from the monument. Another magnificent site as it beckons you down the river. The tower was built in the 16th century as both a fortress and a port from where Portuguese explorers departed. It is now classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Jeronimos Monastery is across the street from the Tower of Belem. I’d wanted to go into the monastery but was just too tired at that point. The early morning, the distance we’d walked and the relentless wind from the Tagus made us both want to hop on some public transport for a quick trip back to our apartment and a nap. But you can’t miss this monastery if you’re anywhere in Belem. It’s Gothic facade is absolutely awesome. It is also been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And pictures do not do it justice – it’s something you have to see to believe.

It was our last night in Lisbon 🙁 And we’d learned a lot. All we wanted was a last beautiful sunset, some gorgeous food and SOME TAWNY PORT!

We finally mastered the Miroduoro! This time we were headed way, way, way up to the highest hilltop in Lisbon – to Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte.

Ok, this is the way to do a Miroduoro:

First, pack your bag with a wine bottle opener and two glasses – something bigger than demi-tasse espresso cups!

Second, stop at a wine bar on the way and pick up a huge bottle of 10-year-old tawny port. We’d passed this wine bar so many times during our visit. Cleverly, it’s called Cheap Wine Bar & Shop (clearly it struck a cord!) This time we finally went in where we chatted with the bar manager – Vera – who gave us tastes of different aged tawnys. She was super helpful and kind.

Happily buying a Tawny Port at Cheap Wine Bar & Shop

Third, stop at a mini mercado (mini market) for a delicious mix of prosciutto ham, goat cheese, fresh fruit and chocolate.

Fourth, haul your loot to the highest hilltop in the city and settle in for a lovely picnic as you wait for nature to smile down on you.

Let me just say, we had the best picnic in the park that night! I mean, meat and cheese and port – YES! The miroduoro wasn’t even crowded. And the sunset was one of the best we’d seen. There were wispy clouds in the sky to provide that additional touch of ethereal color. Unforgettable!

Gorgeous Sunset at Miradouro da Nossa Senhora

We were on a bit of a high, as it was our last night in Portugal and we still had some port left in our bottle so decided to go back to Vera and Cheap Wine Bar & Shop. She welcomed us back with open arms. Even brought us a free appetizer of pizza and olives. And we got to have a nice chat with a lovely woman who took the time to share part of her story with us. When we finally left, I got the traditional double-cheek kiss from Vera! It made me feel like a million bucks!

It was the perfect end to an incredible trip. The experiences, the memories, the conversations – these are what will keep me going during the stressful and complicated days of our so-called normal life. This – THIS – this is why I love to travel.

Adventure, Europe, Portugal 2019, Travel

Serendipitous in Porto

May 7, 2019 Aimee Couturier 2 Comments

Ever have one of those days where things just continue to work out? Today was one of those days.

John and I really wanted to check out Livraria Lello which is simply a bookstore in Porto. Not so simply it has been said that this bookstore is the 3rd most beautiful in the world. It has also been said that J.K. Rowling’s inspiration to write Harry Potter happened here. In fact the staircase in the store is quite similar to the one in Hogwarts.

Apparently this is a big draw for tourists as I read that people wait hours to get in. Instead John purchased our tickets online and we were in the store within 20 minutes of opening. Serendipity #1.

It really is a gorgeous store! Books in all languages line the deep brown wood walls. There is a massive stained glass ceiling and the red wooden winding staircase dominates the space. There is a small room even devoted to all of those Harry Potter fans.

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Next on the agenda was the famous Clérigos Church of Porto. And of course it’s tower – Torre dos Clerigos. Wherever you are in Porto you cannot miss the most visited monument in the city. The tower is rich in history but the real reason we were there was to make the climb to the top as apparently from there you get the best 360 degree views of the city. To get to the top one must climb 240 steps. If it sounds daunting it’s really not. The biggest trouble is that the stairs are so narrow that sometimes only one person can pass at a time. It’s not a place for someone who is claustrophobic. The climb is worth it! The day was brilliant and the views from the top did not disappoint. You really can see the entire city, as well as Gaia in the distance, from this monument. Serendipity #2

It was such a stunning day that of course we went to the riverfront for lunch – this time sitting on top of the pedestrian area and right against the wall. The view from there was not too shabby either! We were at Ribeiras Restaurante where we fought a little with the seagulls that were after our lunch (we won!) but it was a nice relaxing time. Serendipity #3

Finally! Back over the Luís I Bridge to Gaia for our port wine tasting. Our Airbnb host had recommended Taylor’s Port and wine cellar. We also liked it as it seemed to be off the beaten path so less likely to be super crowded. What a cool experience! You get an audio tour of the cellar plus a port tasting for 15 Euros each. The tour is very interesting and informative and you wind your way through the cellar out to a peaceful and lovely garden where you are seated to try their port. We were ready!

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The tasting included a white port and a ruby port. First, before coming to Portugal I wasn’t even aware there was a white port! But I thought, with my passion for white wine, that I’d prefer white port.

My impression of port…wait for it…absolutely amazing! I never thought I’d like this stuff! And…I preferred the red. Now things were getting a little crazy 🙂 We really enjoyed the time in the garden appreciating the port, and the beauty of the entire place. Again, more on port later… Serendipity #4

It was time for another sunset. This time we’d planned even better. We’d brought wine and demi-tasse cups to drink it from. And on the way to the Miradouro we stopped for a takeaway falafel sandwich. Yes, falafel in Porto. We were prepared but – all of the sudden there was just no sun. We’d been blessed with 3 amazing sunsets so far so we couldn’t complain too much.

We were anxious to try a port we hadn’t tasted at the cellar – tawny. Tawny ports are usually made from red grapes aged in wood barrels. They age to a golden brown color and are described as having a nutty flavor. So we wandered around Praca de Liberdade – which is where we got so lost the previous night – in search of a place to try this traditional port. We thought maybe a hotel bar would be pretentious enough to work! But the hotel bar was closed. Instead the helpful concierge directed us to Cafe Guarany which had also been recommended by our host. What a sweet little place! Actually not so little. And they had live music in the form of a pianist which made it more perfect for our needs. We thought, “What the hell”, let’s just order a 20-year old glass of port! When in Porto right?!?! The consensus? Even yummier than the white or ruby! Tawny port does have a rich nutty taste – not sweet or syrupy. It was honestly wonderful! We sat, drank our port and enjoyed ourselves immensely! Serendipity #5

Like I said earlier this was a day where things just worked out as they should. It was a wonderful, eye-opening, yet relaxing day in a beautiful town!

Adventure, Europe, Portugal 2019

Porto may be my motherland

May 7, 2019 Aimee Couturier Leave a comment

After a brief stop at the famous Fiera da Ladra flea market in Alfama, we got on a train to Porto, Portugal which is 310 km – or less than 200 miles – north of Lisbon and is famous for it’s Port wine. When we first booked the trip our plan was to stay in Lisbon for the entire time. But so many people highly recommended that we spend some time in Porto. And now I can see why!

We arrived via train at the famous Sao Bento train station. This train station is on many must-see lists because of it’s interior lobby designed with traditional Portuguese tiles. It is truly lovely – maybe that’s not the right word for it as it’s packed with tourists and locals alike. It is more awe-inspiring.

Walking out of the train station we were again greeted by brilliant blue skies and so many colors. It really is a feast for your senses. John’s comment was “This place has a great vibe”. Mine was more about this place being my motherland! Because everywhere you looked was wine! And Port of course. Much more to come on Port… But wine menus, wine stories, wine cellars, wine tastings. Oh, I’ve come home 🙂

Another thing we saw everywhere we looked was teenagers wearing clothes from Harry Potter. Literally they are all over the streets of Porto! We just thought these were kids come to honor the series – the idea of which was born in Porto. More on the students later.

We headed down the hill toward to famous Cais de Ribeira all the while gawking at the architecture and the colors like silly tourists!

We had just a small amount of time before meeting our host so stopped into the Church of Sao Francisco. Another awe-inspiring structure bearing both gothic and baroque styles. It is quite overwhelming and a LOT to look at.

Back up the hill to meet our sweet Airbnb host who sat us down with a map and marked it all up. If you know me you know I like a marked-up, well-used paper map. Now we had some local recommendations and we were off to see the town.

Our first stop was the riverfront of course. This is the most instragramed area of Porto. When you google Porto this is what you see. Seeing it in person is even better. People walking shoulder to shoulder; little kiosks selling touristy junk; restaurants with views of the river; musicians making money doing what they love. It was quite something!

Starving, we did the tourist thing and sat at a restaurant on the riverfront. And it was a great decision! Sometimes – I feel – doing the touristy thing is necessary. We got to sit and watch the people and the water and the stunning Vila Nova de Gaia across the river. We got to eavesdrop on the stag party going on right next to us and we got to listen and watch an amazing musician right in front of us. And of course the food. We both tried a traditional dish of Porto – the Francesinha. It’s a sandwich with ham, sausage and beef in the middle covered with melted cheese and a sauce made of tomato and beer. Sounds great, doesn’t it?! Hmmm, not so much. The meat was good, the bread was good, the sauce was interesting and the cheese was…icky. Do I recommend it? Everything I read said it’s a must-try. I wish I’d had something else!

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Up, up, up some more hills in Porto and then we headed over the top of the famous Luís I Bridge. This bridge famously crosses the Duoro river between Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia where the port wine cellars that gave Porto it’s name are located. This is the bridge where most of those stunning pictures of Porto have been taken! Pedestrians can take the upper or lower part of the bridge and should definitely take the upper part for the incredible views! Just do t be afraid of heights!

We’d come up, up, up the hill to pass the Luis I bridge at the top so we needed to go down, down, down the hill to get to the sweet town of Vila Nova de Gaia. As usual, we took “the road less traveled by” and “that made all the difference”. We ended up on a small dirt path that was restricted to pedestrians due to construction. But we were all by ourselves! And the views from there were incredible. We’d take the road less traveled by more than once on this trip…

At the bottom of the hill…We really wanted to do a port wine tour but I hadn’t had the forethought to make a reservation nor check the closing times so we were out of luck. But we stumbled upon Mercado Beira-Rio – a small market with a dozen or so restaurants and bars within it. And community style seating in the middle. John had his first(!) glass of port and we picked up a bottle of white from the Duoro valley for me.

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We took our wine and plastic cups to another Miradouro at the top of the hill – Parque Municipal das Virtudes – opposite the famous Cais de Ribeira to watch another stunning sunset. This is where all of those incredible photos of Porto come from – across the river! Again, the park was filled with people. People with kids; playing music, eating their picnics; drinking their wine. And again, the simplicity of life and the beauty of nature and the gratitude one can’t help but feel there gives way to meaningful conversation and overwhelming feelings of love. When the sun dropped into the water of the Duoro river and the sky became pink everyone in the park clapped 🙂

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It had been a long day and we decided to head back to our apartment. On the way we stumbled upon a musician playing guitar and singing in the street adjacent to the Sao Bento train station. Something about her voice and the harsh way she played the guitar caused us to stop and listen. And I’m so glad we did. Her name is Susana Silva. Her voice had a strong, “see me roar” vibe and her words – because a few songs were in English – spoke to us in a profound way. It is called “B U“. It says, “Be Yourself”, “Love Yourself” – these were the themes. More than anything they reminded us of our prayers for the kids. We walked away hand-in-hand me with a soft smile on my face and John with a tear in his eye.

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The peaceful feeling got completely obliterated as we got crazy lost trying to find our way back to the apartment! And remember the crazy kids dressed like Harry Potter? They’d multiplied! There were even more of them and now they were chanting as the walked the streets of Porto. I needed to do some research on this…

Eventually we found our apartment and decided to treat ourselves to a yummy gelato to calm us down before bed 🙂

Adventure, Food, Lisbon, Portugal 2019, Travel

Life is Good but Wine is Better

May 6, 2019 Aimee Couturier 4 Comments

What better way to start your first full day in Lisbon but with Portuguese pastries! This whole city is packed with pastelaria and the typical Lisbon pastry is called pasteis de nata. It was high on my list of things to eat here. We consulted Google and found a small bakery in one of the little hidden alleyways in Alfama – our neighborhood. Breakfast = 1 pasteis de nata, 1 azevias do grão e amendõa – which is cinnamon and chickpeas in fried dough(!) and one savory bread stuffed with chorizo. Okay! Everything I’d heard about pasteis de nata is spot on! It is a flaky crust similar to a croissant filled with a delicious custard and the top is similar to the consistency of creme brûlée. Absolutely yummy and a must-eat here!

We had some time before our scheduled walking tour so now headed up the hill from our apartment toward Sao Jorge Castle – which is a castle built in the mid 11th century and sits at the top of the biggest hill in Alfama. I’ve read it’s not worth paying the money to visit the castle and it was closed so we went in search of a viewpoint and were not disappointed!

Miradouro de Santa Luiza is one of the the most beautiful views in Lisbon. Miradouro translates simply to viewpoint in English. Apparently anytime you see a sign for a Miradouro you should take advantage of it. And since it was so early (Lisbonites seem to stir a bit later than other European cities) we were one of just a few people in the sweet square. It is beautifully landscaped and offers an unobstructed view of the Tagus in the distance and the copper colored rooftops of Alfama in the foreground. Just stunning. At Portas do Sol – which was of course not open yet – we got to see one of the most photographed views in Lisbon.

We headed down the hill toward Bairro Alto where we were scheduled to take a free walking tour of Lisbon. John and I love to do these tours. They are always run by locals and tourists get a chance to hear their stories and ask questions and get local recommendations. This time we chose Chillout Lisbon Tours based on reviews I’d seen online. Pedro was our tour guide – a Fado-singing local who got fired from his office job and decided to use his passion for his city on tours.

During the tour we were given a lot of history on the city. The event in this city that seems to define it more than any other is the earthquake of 1755. I’d read about the earthquake but it was fascinating to be on the streets where it happened and picture life that day.

The earthquake happened on November 1st at 9:40 am. Scientists today say that it registered an 8.5-9 on the Richter scale and it lasted up to 6 minutes. Compare that with the latest quake in San Francisco in 2007 that was just a 5.6 on the Richter scale! The earthquake caused fissures up to 16 feet across. And – since the quake took place on the Catholic holiday of All Saints Day – candles lit in homes and in churches started massive fires all over the city. Survivors of the earthquake rushed from their homes toward what they thought was safety – the water of the Tagus river. From there they watched the river recede and then a tsunami engulfed the harbor and the downtown area of the city, killing somewhere between 10,000 and 100,000 Lisbonites.

A pictorial of the death and destruction of the Lisbon earthquake

Needless to say that day has left it’s mark on the city. The architecture of the buildings changed; the mindset of the people changed; the way they celebrated changed. And the passion that Pedro spoke about it was moving. They have even left the Carmo Convent as it stood after the earthquake that day – roofless as a result of the building caving in on the congregants that day.

We continued on through 4 of the main neighborhoods of Lisbon where Pedro sang and joked and provided history lessons and gave recommendations.

Two things I won’t soon forget – a quote by the Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa who said “Life is Good but Wine is Better!” Apparently he died of liver colic – a.k.a. Chronic alcoholism! And in Lisbon you can “drink whatever you want, wherever you want, whenever you want”! It was a very nice 3 hours and I would definitely recommend anyone to take one of these tours.

Based on a recommendation from Pedro, we headed back to the Bairro Alto neighborhood for a traditional Portuguese lunch. He recommended a street called Rua de Duque which has 5 wonderful, local restaurants on it. I’d actually read the same in my research so we headed to O Fernandinho restaurant, run by Fernando himself – a short, round, jolly man who greeted us with a smile.

We ordered another traditional dish – bacalhau a lagareiro. It was SOOOO good! Grilled cod seeped in olive oil and garlic and accompanied by potatoes and broccoli. My favorite meal yet! Just beware of bones 🙂

More walking…more walking…back to our apartment to rest our weary feet.

Another night in Lisbon equals another stunning sunset. There are so many places to watch the sunsets here. Again, termed Miradouros. This time we packed wine (drink anything, anywhere, anytime!) that our host had left us and headed back up the hill to Placa de Graça. It was nothing more than a small square with a little sculpture and one bar/restaurant but was teeming with people! We managed to get a spot right on the side of the wall for a another gorgeous sunset over the rooftops of Lisbon. And more importantly, sitting in that environment we are able to be completely present. Surrounded by beauty and diversity and love and laughter. That kind of scenario seems to open the door for communication and extreme appreciation. It was a moment I am truly grateful for – especially because I got to share it with the love of my life.

Time for more walking and food! We headed back down the hill and decided to try another typical restaurant on Rua de Duque since every other place was packed with tourists! I don’t like it when the waiters and hosts almost accost you while walking by and I’d rather not eat with a bunch of tourists anyway…This time we ate at Duque da Rua and shared a carafe of Portuguese white and more conversation and smiles.

As we walked back to our apartment through the alleyways with Fado playing in the background, the night would not be complete without having more of Lisbon’s traditional liqueur called Ginja. A Portuguese woman had a small table set out with a large bottle and plastic shot glasses as well as chocolate shot glasses! Can you imagine what we chose?!

A stop on the way to our apartment for a chocolate bar completed our amazing day!

Adventure, Lisbon, Portugal, Portugal 2019, Travel, Woman

The LIGHT of Lisbon

May 4, 2019 Aimee Couturier 1 Comment

My first impression of this city is the light. The way the light hits the pastel-colored buildings – some of which also boast traditional Portuguese tiles – is stunning! And the way the brilliant blue of the sky sits in the background. Even the streets seem to reflect the sunlight; the cobblestones sparkling! It is truly phenomenal. And apparently it’s not just me – studies have been done on the phenomenon of the light in Lisbon. Fascinating…and oh so pretty.

Since we were arriving post Portuguese holiday and the traffic wasn’t bad, our driver Jorge took us on a brief tour of the city – starting from the older portion which was not destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. As you drive closer to the river Tagus you see the difference in architecture and how the buildings have changed since the devastation of that day. The newer buildings are charming with traditional Portuguese tiles and pastel colors of all shades.

A short stop in our super cozy little Airbnb in the neighborhood of Alfama and we were off to check things out.

The downtown area of Lisbon is made up of many distinct neighborhoods – all very close together and all very different from each other. Well I think we visited every single one.

Alfama – the neighborhood we’re staying in – is the oldest in the downtown area and is also described as the most charming. This part of the city survived the devastating earthquake of 1755. The streets are cobblestone and the alleyways are hidden and tiny and adorable. Small shops, restaurants and bars seem to be placed in the most unimaginable places. It’s a neighborhood where you can and should get lost! I believe that is where you’ll find the most charm. Flowers pop from cobblestone sidewalks and apartment terraces.

We had our first unplanned meal on our way down the hill from Alfama. Both of us love to try the traditional cuisine of a place while we travel and this was no different. John got a very typical dish called bacalhau com natas – a mixture of codfish, potatoes and onions with some cream. It was lovely! I – on the other hand – opted for sardines. I know…but I had to try them. They seem to be everywhere in this city! Well, I tried them – once was enough! I also had some wonderful mussels – not a traditional dish but a girl’s got to eat.

We headed down the hill from Alfama toward the center of the city – Baixa. This is definitely tourist-central! This is also the area of the city that was completely destroyed in the earthquake and so is very new – respectively speaking. Interestingly, it also contains the earliest examples of earthquake-resistant architecture. There are tons of restaurants and shops – restaurants and shops that you will find all over the world – H&M anyone?! – but there are also some gorgeous buildings and lovely statues in some of the placas.

Praça do Comércio is known as the entrance to Lisbon. It was rebuilt after the earthquake and is a large welcoming square set right on the riverfront. Here you can check out the cruise ships and sailboats as you walk along the water. So many people come to this area to watch the unbelievable sunset each night over the water.

We took our time strolling down the riverfront enjoying the people watching and the weather and the water. We were walking toward another neighborhood called Cais do Sodre.

This is one of the cool, hip trendy neighborhoods. It is considered to be a good example of Lisbon’s transformation from traditional to more progressive and liberal. It contains Ribeira das Naus, the recently rejuvenated riverfront areas where tourists and locals alike flock to relax along the water. This is where John and I watched our first Lisbon sunset. We stopped at one of the quiosques for some wine. These quiosques can be found all over the city. You can buy wine or some light snacks here. We bought a glass of Portuguese white wine for me and Portuguese green wine for John!

You read that correctly – green wine! Green wine is nothing new – it is the typical Portuguese Vinho Verde from the northern part of the country. It is cool, crisp and has some effervescence. So yes it’s fizzy. Not my thing 🙂

After the brilliant sunset, we got lost and ended up on Cais do Sodre’s infamous Pink Street. Come here if you want to drink and party into the wee hours of the morning. And after you party, the shopkeepers have to scrub down that famous pink street!

We headed up the hill toward Bairro Alto. In Bairro Alto you are returned to cobblestone streets but it has a much more hippie-bohemian style. There is a lot of personality in this neighborhood! We passed so many cool, eclectic wine bars. Tables are set onto the cobblestone streets for tourists to dine al fresco. And it seems like music and laughter can be heard around every corner.

It was getting way past our bedtime so we made our way slowly back to Alfama. The Alfama neighborhood is also known for having the best Fado music in Lisbon. Fado is the traditional music of Lisbon and from all I’ve read – a must-hear! The music itself is listed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Fado is sung in Portuguese and has a sad, melancholy feel to it. It is somewhat haunting. It is typically a female singer and two men playing guitar. It can be heard all over Alfama! The female voices are strong and steady and loud and absolutely amazing! Just turn the corner onto another tiny alleyway and you can hear another voice belting out a beautiful, yet mournful, tune. Tourists either pay to hear the musicians or just sit on the steps and listen for free.

Since it was late we grabbed a bottle of Portuguese white wine and headed to our apartment where we listened to Fado music (on Spotify!) and talked about life. What a great start to our vacation!

Adventure Traveling WIFE!