Montreux is a relatively small town on the shores of Lake Geneva known worldwide for the Montreux Jazz Festival – an international jazz festival held every summer. And of course for its Christmas market held every winter.
A couple of things to note about Montreux – in full disclosure I’m comparing it to Zermatt.
First the location – and therefore the views – are completely different. Zermatt lies deep in a valley and is surrounded by the jagged – and massive – peaks of the Swiss Alps. Montreux sits on Lake Geneva so you see the still, sparking water with the softer snow-capped Swiss Alps in the background. It was just slightly cloudy and the low clouds hovered about halfway down the mountain making for a surreal vista.
Montreux is so French! Whereas in Zermatt we practiced our German here we’re a bit more comfortable using our limited French. But it’s such a lovely language that it is a pleasure to try to speak it. Also contrary to Zermatt, there are many signs and menus that are only in French.
Although the population of Montreux is only slightly above 26k you can definitely tell that people make their life in this town. There are moms feeding their little ones on benches in the park and business men in suits getting off the bus on their way from work. Because it’s not solely a resort town the pace is much quicker and, yes I’ll say it, the people you encounter slightly ruder.
Or first stop was to our hotel – the infamous Fairmont Le Montreux Palace. I splurged on this one and was really hoping for something magnificent. Well I could tell from the first moment we walked in that we would not be disappointed! It is a massive, historic, gorgeous hotel right on the Swiss Riviera. It’s already tastefully decorated for the holidays with white lights draped along the banister of the central staircase and an elegant Christmas tree right at the reception desk. It was love at first sight for me! At this point in the trip I think we were both worn out and the idea of a little luxury was very welcome!
We were happily welcomed by reception and shown to our 4th floor room with 3 terraces – one of which overlooks Lake Geneva and the distant Swiss Alps. The room is romantic, elegant and charming with the historic touches of crown molding, carved wood ceilings and a marble bath featuring a jacuzzi tub (yay!!!!)
As if I weren’t about to swoon already, we were greeted with a spread of Swiss chocolate, French macarons and a Chocolate Petit Gateaux.
Swiss chocolate and French macarons – great combination!The lovely superior room at the FairmontOur view…enough said
It was time to explore our new city so we set off to the nearby town of Vevey. Vevey was on John’s shortlist for places to stay in Switzerland. It was a scenic walk down the lake and we thought the movement would do us good. The views were phenomenal during most of the walk where pedestrians were permitted to walk right on the lake. But our destination…not so phenomenal! I will say, there is an Alimentarium in Vevey – a food museum – that we did not go into. I feel like doing that may have changed my mind about the town. But John and I both found it a bit depressing and dreary and somewhat sad. It’s not a place I’d recommend.
Next on our list was to explore Montreux’s famous Christmas market called Montreux Noël. The market essentially begins at our hotel – in the gardens out front – and continues for 1 kilometer – all the way to the Montreux Casino. It contains 160 delightfully decorated timber stalls featuring food, hot mulled wine (vin chaude) and vendors selling everything from jewelry to elf slippers. It’s incredible! There is a massive Ferris wheel for kids and adults alike, live music and even Santa literally flying on his sleigh! We were like little kids as we saw the sights – and all of the twinkle lights!
One of the coolest things we saw was the La Redoute House of Wishes which is situated in the indoor heart of the market. All are welcome to grab a small card and write what they wish for. Allegedly the wishes will be sent directly to Santa. Appropriately John and I wrote almost the same message ❤️
John’s wishMy wish
We were completely exhausted at this point but John noticed lights reflected on the beautiful Fairmont of the way back. After a brief rest we had to check it out. This year a brand new light show was included as part of the Christmas market – provided by the Fairmont – to project lights onto the facade of the hotel. The show includes the fantastic light display and Christmas music every evening during the season. What a festive way to end our first day in Montreux!
Note to readers that I’ve only been in Zermatt for 3 days so am definitely not an expert. But in my opinion John and I found the best restaurant in town!
Since we arrived late Saturday we’d walked by Marie’s Deli numerous times and I think John got tired of me saying “I want to go there”. It being named a deli and me craving a traditional European sandwich, we decided to try it on our final night in Zermatt.
We both now agree that it was the best meal we’ve had all week long!
The restaurant is part of the Mirabeau hotel which I wrote about in a previous post. It is definitely not your traditional deli although the owner, Francis Reichenbach, did emulate the delis of New York City in its design. It is a small, cosy, kitschy, charming restaurant filled with framed photos and books lining the walls. A large photo of a smiling Aunt Marie – the restaurant’s namesake – is prominently displayed on one wall. Fresh white roses blanketed by fragrant greenery adorn every table. And the deli case is something to be seen! Fresh meats and cheeses and fruit, oh my!
Lovely table setting at Marie’s DeliWanderlust – a strong desire to travel
We were greeted by the same wonderful server – Francesco – who served us during our previous visit and introduced us to the lovely Coeur du Domaine wine. He remembered us and quickly brought us a glass of the same as well as a basket of freshly baked bread and a plate of cured meat and fresh Parmesan cheese drizzled with honey. He proceeded to recommend a few of his favorite dishes but my mind was on sandwich! This deli did not have the traditional European sandwich and I’m very thankful for that. I settled on a Croque Monsieur and John went with one of Francesco’s recommendations – Huhnchen in Riesling Sauce (chicken in Riesling sauce) – as well as a cup of Pumpkin Curry soup.
Now to my favorite part. As we sipped the delicious wine and snacked on the delicious bread and cheese, the hotel’s owner – Francis – came over to say hello. It was wonderful to talk to him! John asked many questions about the Zermatt way of life – things we’d been wondering about since our arrival. And he told us how the restaurant came to be as well as about his travels to the US. It is so nice to talk to locals when you travel and he was very kind!
Next up – the food! First the presentation. The meals were served atop wooden platters made specifically to fit the French-themed, delightfully-labeled glass bowls that each part of the meal was served in. John’s soup was served this way and accompanied by a smaller, labeled bowl of sour cream to top the soup. My salad came out in a larger glass bowl. The fig dressing came in a separate small bowl. Francesco said I was to pour the dressing in the bowl, replace the glass top and “shake it like a martini”. Yes…ok! And John’s Huhnchen in Riesling Sauce came out in three separate glass bowls, one for the chicken itself, one for the mashed potatoes and one for the ratatouille. The presentation was so unique! And well thought out. And the darling labels were such a nice addition!
The exquisite deli counter!Chicken in Riesling sauce – check out the labels!Beautiful Croque Monsieur
And the food itself? Delicious! Everything was fresh and oh so heavenly! We both agreed that it was our favorite meal in Zermatt.
Having stuffed ourselves we decided to head to our next destination – we had a date with a piano bar after all. But instead Francesco approached us with a splendid after dinner drink – an apple liquor garnished with a fresh green-apple slice – that was made by Francis’ sisters-in-law. It tasted like cider with a kick! Lovely! And then Francis came over to offer us gin & tonic glacé (ice cream)! Unfortunately our bellies couldn’t take it and we passed.
What a phenomenal experience! Francis said the deli concept hasn’t caught on yet in Zermatt. Well if anyone is reading this that finds themselves there please try it! It will be worth it! No where else in Zermatt were we welcomed so completely!
I’m a sucker for a piano bar and the lovely Park Hotel was decorated to the nines for the holiday so off we went. The hotel was just as beautiful up close. But the piano bar…eh! Instead of just playing my favorite instrument, the musician decided to “jazz it up” by adding recorded drum and guitar accompaniment. And he added some singing on top of that! There were a few guests who really enjoyed this – snapping and singing along – but it just wasn’t the relaxing, soft music we were hoping for. Thank goodness for my hot husband and our conversation to distract me!
Day 3 in this beautiful place was absolutely awesome! Every single moment of it! Tomorrow we are off to the French-speaking town of Montreux which sits right on Lake Geneva. More to come…
Day 3 was absolutely incredible! The Matterhorn finally showed itself – and it was definitely worth the wait!
It started cloudy again but the forecast was promising. But regardless of any stinkin’ forecast we were committed to going to the top of the mountain! We figured we’d spend some more time hiking with the hopes that the more time went by the likelier we’d see the mountain. Again we stopped at the tour office to figure out how to get to the trailhead. More bad news…the gondola to the top of the mountain was closed…due to wind. In all honesty I was severely disappointed! But – she said – the weather may change; it may be open later in the day. With positive thoughts we set out on our hike.
And the weather was clear – not clear enough to see the Matterhorn – but clear enough to see the other peaks and enjoy incredible views!
Today we chose the only direction we hadn’t been yet – towards the Matterhorn. We hiked alongside the valley and the Matterhorn Glacier Palace gondola to the sweet hamlet of Zmutt. In my eyes Zmutt is straight out of a fairytale. It was – probably obviously – closed for the season so it was deserted but one could picture the charm of the place anyway. It is a small village of tiny, closely huddled houses and barns and of course a hotel and bars for the apres ski crowd. It was adorable. The views toward and away were out of a picture book. This was by far my favorite spot of any hike we’ve done so far. And all along the Matterhorn – still behind clouds – lurked.
A view of most of ZmuttA chalet at the edge of ZmuttThe sweet hamlet of Zmutt
The hike was amazing because of the views of the mountain peaks ahead and to the right, the views of the valley to the left, and the views of Zermatt itself behind. Everywhere you looked was something new and stunning!
After continuing on past Zmutt we came upon the ugliest building I’ve seen on our trip! Modern and made of concrete – awful. Well come to find out it is a hydroelectric power company that collects the water from a nearby damn and uses pumps to raise to an altitude of 2400 meters where it bores thought tunnels in the middle of the mountain to the Lac des Dix – a Swiss mountain lake. And I must say, the building itself was ugly but the view from the bridge over the Zmuttbach river was jaw dropping! Picture a deep valley with giant icicles raining down and huge evergreen trees draped in snow…
It was on to the ski hamlet of Furi and the location of the mountain station to get to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise was my number 1 thing to do in Zermatt so I was literally crossing my fingers that the wind had died down and the gondola opened. Thanks again to the wonderful tour operators – this time a lovely woman with a humongous smile – who said that it was open!!! She may have giggled when I clapped my hands like a small child! If nothing else I made her smile bigger 😀
Half of the trip was on the “old” Matterhorn Express part of which began running in 1962 and now reaches halfway to the Glacier Palace. We changed gondolas at Trockener Steg and boarded the new Matterhorn Glacier Ride – a new and extremely impressive cable car that opened just last month! Prior to the you could still reach the glacier palace via cable car but only via one of two 100-seat cabins.
The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is the highest cable at station in Europe and boasts over 425,000 visitors in 2017 alone. I can see why!
The ride to the top of the mountain is hard to describe. Gorgeous of course. But also scary and ominous. Seeing the massive mountain with wind whipping the snow around them was just impressive. And parts of the glacier itself – colored that unique blue and sporting scary deep crevasses – was awe inspiring.
Yes that’s the Matterhorn behind that cloudCrevasses in the glacier
We finally reached the top. First thing to note – it is very, very, very windy and oh so cold! I mean you’re on a glacier right?!
We headed right for the Glacier Palace – a winter wonderland 15 meters beneath the glacier. It is a playground in the ice – for adults and children alike! Upon entry you walk through an ice tunnel – you’re walking through the glacier. At the end of the tunnel and exquisite ice sculptures of all types – from Jade Dragon to sculpted ice crystals to wolves howling mountainside. You can also sit on an ice throne and be the king or queen of Glacier Palace!
The ice tunnel in Glacier PalaceJohn and I in the ice tunnelJade DragonI am the ice queen!
We made a pit stop in the cafe on top of the mountain to thaw out a little and then made our way to the 360 degree viewing platform. At this point you’re at 12739.5 feet! And boy did it feel like it. The winds were so harsh you felt like they’d toss you off the mountain. And the snow and temperature…well it would be a quick visit.
We still hadn’t seen the entire Matterhorn! Don’t get me wrong, there have been stunning bits and pieces of it but I’d yet to see the famous peak that I’ve read so much about. So fingers crossed again! Perhaps needless to say buy that gorgeous beats of a mountain remained elusive. We did, however, see a lot of it. What was interesting to me was the fact that all of the other peaks were very clear but it seemed like the clouds hung onto the Matterhorn. Perhaps it’s a specific weather pattern – I’m not sure. But it made for stunning photos.
We were also able to see the famous Breithorn peak which is just a mere 400 meters smaller than the Matterhorn but just as impressive.
Breithorn mountain
And – so cool – we could even see Mount Blanc – IN FRANCE – from up here. Words can’t do it justice!
At this point we were exhausted and frozen. It was back to the gondola to make our way down to Zermatt. As we traveled down – wait for it! – the clouds parted and there she was in all her glory. The Matterhorn! A clear, otherworldly view of a giant, beautiful, scary mountain. YES! Again I was like a kid in a candy store. Even John was speechless. I’m not sure there are enough words to describe seeing this. I don’t think there are. This is something you must EXPERIENCE!
THE MATTERHORN!!!
Drop the mic!
But wait there’s more. I’d been wanting to see the view of Zermatt from a rooftop terrace at the Omnia hotel – a 5-star hotel in the heart of the city. We decided to take advantage of the clear afternoon and head up. This is also a must do in my opinion. It’s a completely different perspective of the town and the gorgeous Matterhorn and definitely worth the time.
View of Zermatt town from the terrace of the Omnia
View of the Matterhorn from the terrace of the Omnia
We woke to similar weather as day 1. There were glimpses, however, of the Matterhorn. It’s an elusive gigantic mountain – it will show you bits of it but not the entire majestic thing!
We would not be derailed! We both really wanted to go cross country skiing and had no problem doing it in the rain. We just weren’t sure the trails would be open. “No, no, not yet” according to the girl in the tourist office. Next plan – more hiking! This time to another mountain called Sunnegga. And it was possible to hike the entire way. Off we went.
This time beginning in the town of Zermatt and walking in a different direction than we’d been so far. I have always loved getting “lost” in anew place and although not lost we were able to see a part of Zermatt we had yet to see. After a left at “the church” we came upon the mountaineers cemetery tucked behind the church. It serves as a memorial to the climbers who have lost their young lives climbing the Matterhorn and the surrounding mountains. There are climbers from all over the world and their agree are mostly very young – 20 somethings. One gravestone, however, commemorates two guides who died of natural causes. They were the guides to lead the first climb up the Matterhorn. It included a party of seven, all of which reached the summit but only three returned to Zermatt in the end. In fact, the Matterhorn and surrounding mountains continue to be some of the deadliest peaks in the world.
Trying to be artistic in the climbers cemeteryHaunting grave marker
The cemetery was tragic and beautiful. One can only hope these young people died doing what they loved…
Onward to the trailhead. This time we’d be ascending the mountain. And the climb was just as beautiful as day 1’s but in a completely different way. We started hiking through the forest pines again, always able to see a brief glimpse of Zermatt behind and down from us. Eventually we walked right into the misty clouds and found ourselves on the edge of the mountain.
For the most part we were by ourselves. Since it was so cloudy – we were literally in the clouds! – it was the sounds that struck me. The sound of our boots in the slush; our breath; the sound of a waterfall on our right; snippets of superficial as well as meaningful conversations. These are the reasons why I love hiking!
The higher we went, the whiter the world became and the slush gradually turned to snow. We passed through more mountain “towns” – groups of little huts almost in the middle of nowhere – one of which is called Findeln, formerly Findelen. The timber houses were deserted and we wondered when they wouldn’t be. Well, apparently this village is world renowned for its mountain cuisine. The town is only accessible on foot – or ski! – as there are no other modes of transportation to get there. Fascinating!
The view from Chez Vrony – a famous mountain restaurant – on a clear dayMy favorite wine cellar! In the middle of the climb outside a famous restaurant called Chez Vrony
As we ascended the mountain the whiteout conditions were interesting as so confusing! There were points when the sun would briefly break through – allowing us a stunning view of the peaks behind the clouds. And then literally within 10 seconds the clouds would reappear to mask the view. It was super cool!
Just a glimpse of the mountain when the sun peaked through
Again we got lost – but just a little! They really do a nice job marking the path with those hot pink poles but when you can’t see more than 50 feet ahead of you they can be hard to spot! Luckily John and I make a good team but I wouldn’t let him out of my site. I was afraid he’d walk into the whiteness and I wouldn’t be able to see him again. Perhaps a silly fear but a fear just the same.
We hugged and puffed and eventually got to Sunnegga – 2.5 hours of a very difficult hike. It’s like a fish story – the more we talk about it the steeper it becomes! So it was a relief to reach Sunnegga.
Sunnegga ski piste
Sunnegga is definitely made for families. Wolli’s park is specifically made for beginners learning how to ski. From here there are a multitude of athletic options – skiing, snowboarding and hiking in winter; swimming, hiking, biking and marmot-watching in summer!
We were achy and sweaty so decided to take the funicular ride back to Zermatt. This railway was built right into the rocks of the mountain and literally gets you back to Zermatt in 4.5 minutes! 2.5 hours to get up; 5 minutes to get back down!
Our afternoon and evening were spent exploring the sweet town of Zermatt. Shopping is the name of the game here. John has been glancing longingly and the multitude of Swiss watch shops so we decided to venture into the Omega shop. Let’s just say I felt like Pertty Woman when she was still in her working-girl clothes and trying to get service in an upscale shop! But Valerie was very friendly and helpful. John tried on a few stunning watches. He decided he liked one that was only $4500 with Valerie’s exclusive discount (what?!?!). Needless to say we left without a watch but mark my words – someday I will buy my husband his dream watch…
Zermatt’s Main Street – Bahnhofstrasse
I was craving a glass of local wine while sitting next to a cosy fireplace that we’d seen on our first night. It is called Chami Bar and was exactly what the doctor ordered! We snuggled up on a couch next to a roaring fire and sampled some more local wine – this time two whites called Johannisberg and Petite Arvine – both yummy of course but incomparable to the Coeur du Domaine from day 1.
We decided to wander off the Main Street to find somewhere to eat and came upon Chez Gaby! Since this is John’s daughter’s name we decided why not? It was a small, warm restaurant decorated for Christmas whose specialty was grilled meat. Ok! And our little corner table reminded me of the snugs in Ireland.
John in the snug at Chez Gaby
A day in Zermatt isn’t complete in our minds without chocolate! But since all of the chocolaterie’s were closed at this point it was a mad dash to Denner the local grocery. But we made it!
An evening of chocolate, rest and good books completed another amazing day in paradise…
Day 1 in Zermatt did not disappoint. First, a couple of things to know about Zermatt. The train ride up is gorgeous! You will travel through a lot of small towns – some of which are right on Lake Geneva and offer stunning views of the mountains. However, once the sun goes down, all is pitch dark! So pulling into the station in Zermatt was sweet. It’s a small, walkable town at the foot of humongous mountains with little restaurants and bars and tons of white lights. Outside of some of these bars are seats that offer fur on the chairs and your own personal blanket.
Zermatt is also definitely a skiers town. Tourists can be seen walking the town in their ski boots and shop after shop after shop is dedicated to the sport.
We woke to a pretty ugly day in Zermatt. It was so overcast that you couldn’t even see the Matterhorn! We think we caught a glimpse of one of the leftmost peaks but still are not sure. Regardless the scenery is stunning. The forecast called for rain pretty much all day long. But — when it rains in the valley, it snows on the mountain! So up we went after warnings that it would pretty much be a whiteout and most of the hiking trails were closed.
We took the famous Gornergrat Bahn (railway) – a cog railway from Zermatt to Gornergrat. This railway was built in 1898 and the first electric rack railway built in all of Switzerland. We traveled slowly up the mountain surrounded by fresh, beautiful power snow. The further up we went, the less we could see on account of all of the snow. It was lovely!
View on a clear day@Our view!View on a clear dayOur view!
Well, you’re supposed to have one of the best views of the Matterhorn from Gornergrat – they boast 360 degree views of 38 4,000 meter peaks out of a total of 48 in all of Switzerland – including the Matterhorn. But all we saw was snow! And clouds – which were beneath us at this point. It was fun to trounce around in the snow and make fun of the fact that all we could see was WHITE!
We wanted to do some snow hiking which isn’t accessible directly from Gornergrat so we traveled back down to a very small ski stop called Rotenboden. From there we got on the Panorama Trail to Riffelberg. We were one of only 2 couples on the mountain and at times you couldn’t even see the other couple on account of the snow and mountains. We trekked over and down the mountain surrounded by pristine whiteness. In some places the only other tracks were of the couple ahead of us. It was like our own little mountain. I can see how it could be a bit scary – our conversation included the Donner Party, Into Thin Air and that infamous movie Alive – but the trail was well marked with hot pink poles. Even with the snow you could still pick them out.
Trail head at Rotenboden
We were greeted in Riffelberg by a sweet little chapel at the trailhead. And of course skiers getting off the train and gondola to head further down the mountain. After stopping for a wonderful goulash in the lodge, we got back on the train to head to our next hike.
Chapel on entry to Riffelberg
Off at Riffelalp we found that there were trails to take us all the way into Zermatt. The first is called the Forest Trail which leads through a typical mountain forest. We were surrounded by Swiss pine trees. Only when there was a clearing could you see the mountains beyond. It was so peaceful! And again we had the trail completely to ourselves. Someone had definitely been up there but were nowhere to be seen.
Each bench along the trail says “glad to see you” in four languages
On our way down to Zermatt we passed a few little “towns”. Some of them had a hotel, and all of them had bars. Because we are here during shoulder season, these bars on the mountain are closed. We could easily picture the places teeming with the apres-ski crowd that would be there in just a couple short weeks. One of the famous ones to check out – if it’s open – is called Hennu Stahl (the party place). Here it is during high season.
Hennu Stahl Apres Ski
We made our way back down into the valley of Zermatt and ended up at the end of the small pedestrian only town. It was a wonderful hike – and day! And we were exhausted and very hungry.
Cue some relaxation and some snacks and we were back out to sample some typical Swiss wine. We had passed Josef’s Wine Bar and thought it would be a perfect way to start. Well, Josef’s is not yet open for the season but we ended up at the hotel bar where it’s housed – Hotel Mirabeau. They have a lovely little bar in their lobby with a warm inviting fireplace and a wonderful waiter who seemed to really know his wines.
While doing research for the trip I learned that this area of Switzerland is rapidly making a name for itself in wine production. The region is called Valais. There are a lot of smaller vineyards that take advantage of the unique climate and produce some beautiful wine.
The first white I tried is called Fendant – which it seems you can get anywhere in Zermatt. It also seems to be the most affordable. While I liked it, the second wine was amazing! Called Coeur du Domain, it was a white blend of Petite Arvine and Marsanne grapes. It was really, really nice! Even John liked this white – even more than his red which was a traditional Swiss Pinot Noir. We sat by the fire and drank these beautiful wines before heading closer to town for some well-earned dinner.
We’d walked by Gusto Matto a few times and it looked warm and inviting so in we went. Deciding to split meals was a good idea. We started with a gorgeous Tagliere vegetariano – which was grilled vegetables drizzled in olive oil and served with tomino cheese. Wow – was it amazing! And then we split a spicy salami pizza – YUM!
This place is incredible and we’ve had a wonderful day! It’s like another planet – the money, the scenery, the food, the wine. I’m so excited to explore some more.
On deck, more hiking up closer to the Matterhorn on a hopefully clearer day and some good old-fashioned cross country skiing.
We had big plans for Day 5 – our first full day in Budapest. First thing – could we make this a walkable city? We decided to do our best. From the top of the hill in the Buda Castle district, we made our way toward the impressive Chain Bridge. The Chain Bridge is a suspension bridge that connects Buda and Pest – only the second permanent crossing on the entire Danube. It’s fascinating and technical and you want to figure out how the heck they built it. So here’s a geeky description by www.bridgesofbudapest.com. “The chain-links have been made of iron plates with a length of several meters, its parts are connected by large rivets allowing for the chain to be a real chain and to make small movements. The chains have been led through the top part of the pillars where they rest on large iron saddles. Between the two pillars, the chains are hanging low, and outside the pillars, they lead to the riverbanks where they go underground with minor fractures. Here, deep underground you can find the so-called chain-chambers in which the descending chain-ends are being anchored by vast iron blocks leaning to the walls of the chambers.” Very cool. And, although it’s not a pedestrian-only bridge, it’s easily walkable – in fact, with some of the traffic we saw in Budapest, we may have gotten over on foot quicker than some of the cars.
Chain Bridge BudapestChain BridgeLocks of love on the Chain Bridge
My image of Budapest – relative to Prague – was again how much larger it was. It was also a bit intimidating to me with its tall, modern buildings and excessive traffic. Although a tourist destination, this also seemed to me a place where people lived and worked. It didn’t seem to be completely focused on tourism like Prague did. There were also a lot of recognizable brands – the Ritz Carlton, H&M, the Four Seasons – and tons and tons of construction everywhere you looked.
With the (relative) success of our free tours in Prague, we decided to do the same thing in Budapest. The meeting point was at Vörösmarty Square in the heart of downtown Budapest. It just so happened that we were in Budapest during their annual Spring Fair which is very similar to their Christmas fair/market. Wooden huts scattered throughout the square boasting everything from Rooster Testicles Stew (I swear!) to woolen hats and mittens. The trees were decorated with colored lights and the square was full of people. I’m not sure if that was because of the fair or it is always like that. It does seem to be a very popular tourist spot in the city.
Vörösmarty Square Budapest
We’d planned to do the generic free city walking tour like we’d done in Prague. We were to meet at 10:30 at the square. Well, shortly after we showed up (early) we saw a tour being started and assumed it was the one we wanted to go on. So we joined it. The tour was led by a local named Levi and we’d soon find out that we were not on the generic city walking tour but on a free tour of the Jewish Quarter. We decided to just go with it. This was one of those situations that happen while traveling where you just stumble onto something great!
On the top of my list of things to do in Budapest was to explore the Jewish Quarter. I’m not going to lie – most of the reason was because of the food and pubs I’d read about in the area. The Jewish Quarter of Budapest is well-known for what they call ruin pubs. These are bars built in the ruins of abandoned buildings that were left to decay after World War II. They are known for being hip, artsy and funky and each one is reported to be distinctly different than the others.
Outside of a ruin pubOutside of a ruin pub
The history of the Jewish Quarter was also fascinating to me and now I’d get the chance to learn even more about it. Prior to World War II this area was filled with a booming and cheerful life for Jewish people. The war changed all that. The area then became a ghetto where Jews were forced to live in cramped, unhealthy conditions. It was separated from the rest of the city by barbed wire and barricades so that no one could exit or enter at will. There are a few Jewish synagogues – 2 of which are still used today. It was interesting – and horrific – to listen to our guide tell the stories of the Jews during the war and to see the sights where they lived and died.
Memorial to the Jews at the Jewish Synagogue Budapest
We ended our free tour at the first ruin pub opened in Budapest – Szimpla Kert. This pub was specifically on my list to visit so I was really happy that we got a chance to go there. It is a huge pub with multiple nooks and an open-air area and loads of haphazard, mismatched furniture and art all over the place. The pub is inundated with graffiti and patrons are even encouraged to add to it. There’s even an old Trabant car cut in two sitting in the open-air courtyard where you can have a drink or listen to live music. What a super cool place!
Trabant car table at Szimpla kertOur graffiti at Szimpla Kert! Aimee + JohnOur graffiti at Szimpla Kert! I heart John
The tour ended but John and I wanted to stick around and ask a few questions of our guide Levi. Rather than just answer the questions, he asked if we wanted to join him for lunch. Of course we would! So we stayed at Szimpla Kert and ordered their daily special and spent over an hour talking with Levi. We talked about everything from Hungarian wine to World War II to the current state of politics in both our country and his. He was passionate and informative and it was an amazing lunch where we both learned a lot! These are the moments I live for…..
Another thing on my list to do in Budapest was a trip to the Great Market Hall (or Central Market) so we began the trek there. We decided to take a not-so-direct way there and head down the tourist avenue called Váci utca. This is a famous pedestrian-only street filled with shops, bars, cafes, massages…pretty much anything you need or want you can find there. But you’ll pay for it. It is super touristy but definitely worth seeing – once.
The Great Market Hall was incredible! It is huge – 3 full floors literally packed with fruits, veggies, fish, meat, spices, wines, souvenirs and pre-cooked food stalls. I walked in here and my jaw dropped. There is so much in this old beautiful hall. It is noisy and crowded and overwhelming but a definite must-see in Budapest. And a great place to pick up souvenirs as the prices seemed much better than the street we’d just come from. Also, this is definitely a place to eat! If you’re up for very, very good and local food and don’t mind not being waited on or actually sitting down at a table, pick up something hot and traditional here. You can find all of the must-EAT foods in Central Market Hall. Just go in hungry!
Great Market HallGreat Market Hall
We had a Hungarian wine tasting scheduled for 5 pm on Day 5 near our hotel so it was time to get our butts back to the Buda Castle district. There’s always enough time, however, for a Thai massage, right? John and I had been intrigued by the Thai massage parlors since we’d heard about them from our fellow Charlotteans on Day 1 in Prague. We finally had the time and the guts to check one out. So down we went into the incense-seeped basement of a storefront called Spirit Thai Massage. We decided to go with the 30-minute, “dry back, shoulders and head” massage. We were instructed to remove our shoes and shown to individual private rooms where we donned humongous pajama-like clothes. There was no massage table; just a mattress on the floor with a pillow at the top. I was nervous but also excited. In came this gorgeous Thai girl who couldn’t have been over 16 years old or 100 pounds soaking wet! We’d see what she could do for me… Let me just tell you – this little girl hurt me – in such a good way. It’s interesting how different it was from an American massage. They are not shy about touching you or contorting your body in ways I’m not sure it was meant to be contorted. Oh my! It was heaven! And also kinda painful. Amazing how the two coincide sometimes…
Finally! We were off to our scheduled Hungarian wine tasting. I’d read about the superior wines in Hungary when I first started researching the country months ago. One forum recommended one tasting in particular so I’d already made a reservation. The tasting was at Faust Wine Cellar. The cellar is located at the end of a huge labyrinth system underneath Buda Castle Hill that was carved in the Middle Ages as an escape route. There are stairs that lead down from the remains of a 13th century Dominican Cloister to get there. As you descend into the cellar, you can feel the temperature drop and the darkness envelop you. It’s very cool – literally, right?!
Faust Wine Cellar Budapest
I was really looking forward to this tasting as I’d read only amazing things about the couple who runs the cellar and the wines they serve. We were sat immediately and choose to go with the tasting that included 9 recommended wines from the sommelier – both red and white. Gabor Nagy is the sommelier and wine cellar manager at Faust. For each tasting, he’d place the bottle on our table, pour the tasting and then provide us with information about the wine. He talked about the varietal and the alcohol content and pointed out the region of Hungary that the wine was from. He seemed very knowledgeable about the wines and they were all simply delicious! John and I both had our favorites, however, and the tasting included “on the final to call back one from the tasted drinks”. So we could choose one of the 9 wines to taste again at the end. It was a wonderful experience and one I’d highly recommend. The wines were amazing and the atmosphere was unlike anything I’d experienced – it was dark and mysterious and romantic. And, I have to say, the company was pretty good as well. We both had a fantastic time!
Starving and exhausted and slightly drunk, we took the recommendation of Gabor and scooted across the street for a late dinner at Vár: a Speiz. It was all we could do to stumble back to the hotel and fall into bed. It was a long, unforgettable, brilliant day! But we did answer the question at the top of this post – YES, Budapest can be a walkable city – just commit and wear comfy shoes!
A seriously cool thing happened while we were in Prague. On day 3, I got a FB message from a friend I’d met during my Amazon jungle trip. Come to find out she’s now living in Prague! Although we already had way too many plans before we were to head to Budapest, she and I agreed to spend 30 minutes over a coffee before we headed to our train. Just goes to show you – it’s a small, wonderful world. And it makes me feel special and appreciated to know that I have people out there wanting to stay in touch – no matter how far away or how long it’s been. Nice.
There’s not much to tell about a 9 hour(!) train ride from Prague to Budapest except try not to drink too much because the bathrooms are yucky.
We finally got to our hotel – the St. George Residence – after 5pm on day 4. And talk about a difference between what we’d experienced in Prague and what we experienced here. A front desk clerk who was not helpful at all and a suite with mold in the bathroom. Here’s where I reiterate my distrust of TripAdvisor. This one had gotten rave reviews and I have absolutely no idea why! I’m not even going to include a link to the hotel – I wouldn’t want anyone to use it. Regardless, we managed to get them to switch our suite without a problem and to give us a legible map before heading out to explore and get some much needed food.
Budapest – pronounced Boo-da-PESHT – is the capital of Hungary and is separated into 2 distinct areas by the Danube River – the hilly Buda Castle District and the flat Pest District. I chose our accommodation on the hilly Buda Castle side for the same reason that we stayed in Mala Strana in Prague – it was supposed to be a bit more upscale with a quieter feel. One of the first things I noticed about this city was its size relative to Prague. I thought there was no way we’d be able to walk the city like we did in Prague. I also noticed how much less pristine it seemed to me. Those two observations and the fact that our hotel was crap had me in a bit of a stressful mood…
Our first stop was just a short block from our hotel – the famous St. Matthias Church. This church sits on the Buda Castle side of Budapest but its spire is the first thing you see from the Pest side as well. It’s absolutely gorgeous and seeing it lifted that stressful mood! And at this time of the day it was just being lit up with strobe lights. The church is Roman Catholic and was built in the 9th century but was destroyed in 1241 and the current building was constructed in the late 13th century. The first thing I noticed about the church was its very unique roof which is covered in painted majolica Zsolnay ceramic tiles. They were added at the end of the 19th century and provide colors and an intricacy seldom seen.
St. Matthias Church – BudapestThe roof of St. Matthias ChurchSt. Matthias Church at night
Just when I thought the view couldn’t get any better, we walked up the stairs of Fisherman’s Bastion and looked out over the famous Chain Bridge that bisects the Danube to the Parliament building. OH MY GOD! I don’t think I’ve ever – in my entire life – seen a building as impressive as this one. It will take your breath away and no pictures do it justice. But take a look at them anyway 🙂 The building is done in a Gothic Revival style and is absolutely splendid – especially when lit up at night.
John getting artsy from Fisherman’s BastionOverlooking ParliamentOverlooking ParliamentOMG! – Parliament – Budapest
Our first real interaction with locals was at a very small restaurant we found on one of the back streets near our hotel. I like to get off the main drag and feel like you tend to find better places that way. Well, this place didn’t support that theory! Imagine the stereotypical scary Hungarian grandma annoyed with having to get up off her bum to serve some stupid Americans. She frightened me…we didn’t stay long…and I’ve blocked out the name of the restaurant on purpose…
In search of sustenance and perhaps a smile, we came upon Fekete Holló Vendéglő – or literally The Black Raven Restaurant. It was exactly what we were looking for – traditional Hungarian dishes in an over-the-top traditional Hungarian environment. I mean, what can you say about a restaurant with medieval instruments of torture adorning the walls. Sign me up! The food and service were very good and there was live music – in the form of 2 Hungarians playing a guitar and violin. They were actually pretty good. I felt like I was in a cheesy movie, however, when the violinist wandered between the tables to play for individual parties. But instead of wanting a tip, he was more interested in a shot of Schnapps for his efforts 🙂 Priceless! As much as I wanted to get a photo of him playing, I was too cheap to fork up the money for shots.
Black Raven Restaurant – Budapest
Back to the hotel where we fell into bed. Day 5 would be a big day and we needed our rest.
Day 2 in Prague was to be spent on our own – walking some of the surrounding areas and returning to some places we wanted to see before we left. I love to explore a city just walking it. We started at the main square and decided to meander our way to Zizkov tower and Vyšehrad and then make sure to head back to the Operation Anthropoid memorial as it was closed on Monday. Along the way, I wanted to check out the Vinorhady neighborhood. I’d read it was a neat local neighborhood and Vinorhady is Czech for vineyards so it must be awesome.
Retail silliness – AimeeRetail silliness – John
The Zizkov Television Tower is a transmitter tower built in Prague between 1985 and 1992. With its unique high-tech architecture and its stance on top of a hill in Eastern Prague, it is a sight to see, especially relative to the ancient city that surrounds it. The tower has been a source of controversy in Prague and rumored to have been used during the communist era to jam incoming Western radio and television transmissions. The main reason for me wanting to see the tower is the art added to it in 2000 by internationally acclaimed Czech artist David Černý. Fiberglass structures called Miminka (Babies) were originally placed on the tower only temporarily but became so popular that they are now there permanently. There are 10 faceless babies on the tower, climbing up and down. I’m not sure what the correct word for it is – maybe weird? Yes, it’s weird. But interesting as well.
Zizkov TowerZizkov Babies
From Zizkov we headed to the surrounding neighborhood of Vinorhady which was once covered in vineyards in the 14th century. To me it was a much more residential area of Prague. Small parks with teetering toddlers and dogs and many old beautiful buildings that looked like they were apartments. In fact, in doing research, it is where a lot of ex-pats live.
I really wanted to see Vyšehrad – which is another castle once used by Prague’s leaders. You can see the stunning spires on this grand building from miles away and I was told it was something to see up close. It was built in the 10th century – some 70 years after the establishment of Prague Castle – on top of a hill overlooking the Vltava River and across the river from the more well-known Prague Castle. It was coined the “Castle on the Heights” and was used for about 40 years before successors to Vratislav II, a prince of Bohemia’s founding Premyslid dynasty, returned to Prague Castle. Now apparently it is a quiet and peaceful place to take in the city. It is surrounded by large gardens and is open to the public.
Vysehrad Castle
Well, we never made it there L But we did make it close! After walking over 6 miles and realizing we’d need to cross railroad tracks to get to the park, we were hangry and decided to bag the whole thing. We were still able to see the spectacular spires from “the other side of the tracks”.
After a stop for a coffee it was time to head back to the memorial to Operation Anthropoid which – wait for it – was closed! Apparently for technical repairs. Now hangry and disappointed we decided to find the cure for all ills – chocolate of course. We headed back to our tried and true Chocoffee for a sandwich and more beautiful tap-drawn Belgian chocolate goodness. It definitely lifted my mood!
Back across one of the lesser known bridges to Mala Strana, we strode along the riverfront. It wasn’t the most beautiful day in Prague but I’d be remiss in not saying how lovely it was to hold the hand of someone I love while watching the dazzling city go by.
What is it they say about the best laid plans? Well, I agree that they often go awry but they usually result in something wonderful. Maybe I should come up with a saying to that effect. I’ll get right on it…We’d been told by our cute free-tour-guide Amanda to check out a local restaurant called Lokal for a great local (get it?!) experience. And seeing as it was just a few blocks from our hotel, it was raining and we were exhausted, we were in. Immediately upon entering and asking about a table, John was told “We’re full”. Damn these rude Czechs! Or maybe they just don’t care. Regardless, I’m not even going to link to the restaurant…
On we went, now on the lookout for someplace warm and dry and close with – you guessed it – good wine. That’s not too much to ask, right? Well, we happened to stumble on a place that offered all of those things and more – a sweet little restaurant called Tři století – Café and Restaurant. Again, I’m going to reference Trip Advisor because they were right-on again…this one was voted #94 of 5372 restaurants in Prague. We had an adorable waitress who gave us great service. We had an amazing meal. We had some wonderful Czech wine. AND we had a great conversation to go with all of it. It was the perfect ending to our time in Prague.
It was our first full day in Prague. As on most of my international trips, I like to take advantage of the free tours offered in most of these tourist cities. Prague was no exception. We woke early, had an amazing breakfast at the Alchymist, and were on our way. It was going to be another gorgeous day!
My boy on the Charles Bridge
We took our time along the Charles Bridge as there were many fewer tourists at this time of the day. Our tour wasn’t scheduled until 10 so we wandered into the Old Town Square. This is where the famous Astronomical Clock tower sits as well as restaurants, bars and shops as far as the eye can see. I love seeing these areas of town but try to resist the urge to eat or buy here as these areas are usually a rip-off. But they are fun to see – and the people watching can provide hours of entertainment.
Astronomical Clock Prague Old Town
Our walking tour was lead by Amanda – a self-proclaimed “half-breed” – half-American and half-Czech – who had spent the last 9 years living in Prague. She was cute and fun and walked us from the Old Town Square to the river and the Rudolfinum (an architectural gem where concerts are typically held and is reported to have the best acoustics in the city) to the old Jewish cemetery and through the Jewish Quarter. During the tour she providing basic history of the area as well as stories from her own family who had “had enough” and finally left the area in the late 1960’s.
The history of Prague dates back to the 9th century when the land was termed Bohemia and under the rule of the Great King Wenceslas. It continues through the Hussite revolution and the rule of the Hapsburgs and entry into World World I. The history of this region that is most fascinating to me, however, is Prague’s role in World War II and the period after that.
Rudolfinum
Prague is one of the rare cities that didn’t get physically destroyed during WWII, leaving the beautiful in-tact architecture we still see today. But the impact on the people of the Czech Republic was severe – some 120,000 Jews lost their lives during the war – some buried 12-deep in the old Jewish cemetery in the Jewish Quarter.
Jewish Cemetery Prague
After the war, the Soviets took over and established communism in Prague during which repression and economic hardship became the norm. Hundreds were executed and thousands died in labor camps simply because of their beliefs. Communism remained in control until the fall of the Berlin Wall when Czech youths organized a peaceful demonstration in memory of 9 students executed by the Nazis in 1939. The days following this demonstration became known as the Velvet Revolution because it was almost completely non-violent. I enjoy hearing this history because those who went through this time are still with us today and it’s easier for me to picture their lives and hardships…
Needless the say, the tour was well worth the time and afterward, we decided to make our way down the river – hand-in-hand – to see a memorial to Operation Anthropoid. John had become fascinated with this story during his research into the area. Operation Anthropoid was the code name for the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich who was one of the most powerful men in Nazi Germany and was instrumental in the rise of Adolf Hitler. He was in charge of the so-called Final Solution of the Jews in Europe. If it makes it clearer, this man was nicknamed “The Blond Beast” by the Nazis. Really?!?!?! And called “Hangman Heydrich” by others. The dude had absolutely no compassion for humans at all. So, despite extreme risks, 2 Czech soldiers – Gabčík and Kubiš – were tasked with carrying out the assassination attempt. After some unbelievable circumstances, Gabčík and Kubiš believed the attempt failed. Heydrich, however, was wounded and later died of his injuries. There is now a memorial erected beneath the Orthodox Cathedral of Saints Cyril and Methodius.
National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror
John was really looking forward to seeing this memorial. Little did we know that the memorial was closed on Mondays. We’d have to come back.
We’d been on our feet for hours and needed sustenance so made our way to a little bar filled with smoking locals. We tried our first local beer – Gambrinus – and of course schnitzel. On our way back over the bridge, John noticed a little café called Chocoffee. Well, the name says it all. This place was so good we’d go out of our way to return the following day. They advertised Belgian chocolate served from its own tap with any type of dipping food you’d like – from pretzels to fruit to nuts to what they called a cream horn which looked like an éclair but lighter and flakier. YUM! Those who know me know that I’m not a HUGE fan of Trip Advisor but according to them, this is #12 of 4970 places to eat in Prague. Yep – I agree with that!
Happiness at ChocoffeeYum at Chocoffee
Back across the river to Mala Strana, we visited the Lennon Wall, an area of legal graffiti that is a tribute not only to John Lennon but to love and peace in general. Even when the wall was painted over by authorities, on the second day it would be filled again with poems and flowers and even more graffiti.
Lennon Wall PragueLennon Wall Prague
John wanted to stop by the Church of our Lady Victorious which is famous for its housing of the Infant Jesus of Prague. He’d read about the Infant Jesus of Prague in one of his childhood novenas and he wanted to see it in person. The Infant Jesus has 2 crowns and about 46 robes which are traditionally changed about 10 times a year. He is enclosed in glass inside a beautiful Baroque-style church beneath which the novenas can be read in at least a dozen languages.
Infant Jesus of Prague
Our sweet free-tour guide Amanda convinced us that another tour was in order – that of Prague Castle. The tour was to start in the Old Town Square and complete on the other side of the river within the old castle walls. This was something both John and I were really looking forward to seeing – partially because of the amazing views of the city and partially because of the renowned St. Vitus Cathedral that is depicted in almost every picture of Prague.
Fantastic Prague Castle
This tour was a bit different, unfortunately. Our tour guide, Kevin, was American and had only been in Prague for 2 short years. Further, we think he was high or at least severely hung over. Regardless, he did make us giggle a few times but we didn’t get a great overview of this historic castle. One disappointing point – we didn’t get to go into St. Vitus Cathedral. Apparently it closes at 5 and we didn’t get there until after 6. But according to Kevin, “it’s just a church”. WHAT?!?!?! I really regret not having a chance to see this “church”.
St. Vitus Cathedral – “just a church”
Prague Castle is a castle complex dating from the 9th century. It is the official residence of the president of the Czech Republic and is the largest ancient castle in the entire world at over 18 acres! At one time it even had a moat for protection and one leader filled the surrounding area with deer so he could hunt without leaving the castle grounds.
The castle represents virtually every architectural style of the last millennium as each inhabitant built onto the castle in the preferred architecture of the day – from the Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral to the Romanesque Basilica of St. George. It has seen its share of hard times as well. In 1541 a fire destroyed large parts of the castle and the Second Prague defenestration in 1618 saw the castle damaged and dilapidated by looting and robbery. Does anyone know what defenestration is? I didn’t! Apparently defenestration – or the act of throwing someone out a window – was a huge part of Prague’s history. Interesting…
The castle was fascinating – and over-the-top gorgeous – and the views of the city were exactly what I’d read – absolutely stunning!
View from Prague Castle across the river
Our friends from Charlotte had recommended a restaurant on the top of Stahav hill very close to the castle district so we decided to walk there. What was so interesting to me is the lack of people on that side of the river at that time of night. We’d literally go blocks without seeing anyone. Kind of strange in such a touristy city. And it also meant we got lost. But not for long. Eventually we found the restaurant called Peklo – which is the Czech term for “hell”. It is part of the oldest monasteries in the world and is accessible by descending into the rock. It was dark and warm and inviting. We had some LOVELY Czech wine – of course white for me and red for John – and enjoyed the food and service there.
Dinner at Peklo
Walking the roads back to our hotel was like being in a different era. Cobblestones and lanterns lighted the way and very, very few people. It was lovely – and a little disconcerting 🙂 The evening finished with some more Czech wine for me and Becherovka for John. Becherovka is a traditional Czech herbal liquor. Although obviously he looks great drinking it, he didn’t get much past a few sips!
John drinking Becherovka – he looks cute but it tastes nasty
The theme of this trip was “Be here now”. I really wanted to try to stay in the present moment because, not only has it been way too long since I’ve traveled, but this would be my first time traveling with a man I love. I had very high expectations and wanted to savor every moment.
Arrival into Prague via taxi had us cresting over Petrin Hill where we got our first glimpse of the stunning Prague Castle, Old Town and the famous Charles Bridge. Everything was so old and intricate and very, very clean. It was lovely! We arrived at our hotel, The Alchemist, in Malá Strana. Malá Strana is one of the districts of Prague that literally translates to “Little Side” but is more commonly referred to as “Lesser Town”. The name of the district derives from its position on the left bank of the river Vltava, at the base of the Prague Castle. I chose this area to stay in because it’s much quieter than Old Town and New Town across the river and was reported to have hilly cobblestone streets lit by lanterns that would be close to deserted while the youngsters played across the Charles Bridge. Immediately upon entering the hotel we were given a welcome cocktail of their house made sparkling wine and numerous apologies for not having had a car for us at the airport. They were wonderful and the hotel was gorgeous – over-the-top – lots of gold and rich fabrics and antique furniture and even a stuffed boars-head on one of the walls. Everywhere you looked was something different and unique.
Alchymist Hotel Prague
Our room was decorated in a similar vein. Even the beams on the ceiling were hand-painted in swirls and flowers and grapevines.
The hotel hosted a free nightly wine tasting so we figured why not? Almost immediately upon sitting down with our wine, another couple in the lounge asked where we were from. Come to find out they were from Charlotte as well! We ended up sharing our stories over some lovely wine. It was a nice way to begin the trip.
First thing to do? Cross the famous pedestrian-only Charles Bridge and wander around Old Town until we found some dinner.
Prague’s Famous Charles Bridge
The Charles Bridge is a historic, Gothic-style bridge that served as the only means of crossing the river until 1841. It was named after King Charles IV and is protected by three towers – 2 on the Lesser Town side and one on the Old Town side of the river. The bridge is decorated by a total of 30 statues, mostly in the baroque style, originally erected around 1700. But now they are all replicas – the originals are kept in museums for preservation.
It was a beautiful evening and the bridge was packed with tourists and locals artists hawking their wares. Every direction you look from this vantage is awesome. I’ve been to many places in my travels but have never been anywhere where the architecture of the buildings was so ancient and yet so intact. Breathtaking!
Locks of Love – Charles BridgeCharles Bridge Statues
Letting yourself get too hungry as a tourist is never a good thing. Every single thing I read about Prague said never to eat anywhere near the Charles Bridge – we’d get mediocre food, poor service and big prices. Well, typical hungry tourists that we were, we popped into a restaurant right off the Charles Bridge. Let me just say, listen to what you read about Prague! The food was actually decent – we both had the typical Czech goulash. In the Czech Republic, the goulash is different than in other parts of the world. This one consisted of lots of savory sauce, beef, a few onions and more bread dumplings than you can wrap your head around. Did I mention that one should believe what they read about Prague?! But at that point, little did I know that bad service is a Czech tradition and usually comes accompanied by a good meal.
After wandering around the Old Town Square and sampling our own bottle of complimentary house wine, we crashed as if we hadn’t slept in 24 hours 🙂
Alchymist Sparkling Wine
Stories from a newly married, adventure seeking woman looking to see the world.
