I’m so happy I get to put my “Adventure Traveling Wife” persona back on! It has been way too long – over 18 months – but life happens and I’m grateful to be where I am —- Fairbanks, Alaska!
Back in 2021 – smack dab in the middle of the pandemic – our “epic” trip to the Finnish Lapland was cancelled due to Covid. I swear it would have been epic too – I’m not just making it bigger than it was because we couldn’t go. Ok, maybe I am, but it was complete with igloo stays, a visit to Santa’s home town, dog sledding and northern lights sightings every single night (SURE…) But, like others, the trip was cancelled. So now that we live so much further from Europe we decided to try going the opposite direction. And here we are in Fairbanks, Alaska – a place documented to have the best chances of seeing the aurora borealis in the world because of it’s unique position in the aurora oval. Aurora viewing is also allegedly enhanced right around the spring equinox which was just last week. Seeing the northern lights has been a bucket list item for me for years. But as psyched as I am to hopefully see them, I’m keeping my expectations LOW.
We arrived late last night to our hotel – Pike’s Waterfront Lodge. To be honest, I really wanted to try to rent another igloo hotel here but wasn’t able to do so and some of the fancier hotels were exorbitantly expensive. And this one just got so many favorable reviews that I couldn’t ignore it. I’m very glad that I didn’t! From the moment you see the hotel – and it’s huge arched sign – it’s simply over the top fun. You cannot help but smile. In fact I believe I saw a sign in the lobby boasting the most fun hotel in all of Alaska. Like I said, over the top. A stuffed bear – of course – neon lights, tiffany ceiling lamps every 10 feet, lots of wood and heads of wildlife everywhere you look. And to top it all off, a Siberian Husky behind the reception desk! We checked in and got on the list to be called if the northern lights were spotted in the area. To be honest this was another selling point of this sweet hotel.
Alas, no northern lights call so we got a good nights sleep and woke excited about our snow-machining trip. I’d booked ages ago and didn’t really know what to expect but all expectations were significantly exceeded. We went on the Fairbanks Snowmobile Adventure from North Pole with Alaska Wildlife Guide LLC. Yes we traveled to North Pole, Alaska for this trip. More to come on North Pole. We were met by our guide, Tony, a burly, articulate man whose snow-machining season was to come to an end in just 2 days.
I talk – and write – so much about connection and the people that make travel so wonderful and memorable. Well, Tony was no exception. He treated us like old friends. We stood around for a good 20 minutes talking about what got him to snow-machining in North Pole. He set out early in life to tackle “dangerous” jobs – including logging and commercial fishing. Now, I’ve never seen Deadliest Catch but the stories he told could have easily been highlighted on the show. Unfortunately a lot of loss of friends in that line of work. He also told us an incredible (in a bad way) story of how when he was 20 he went into “one of the most dangerous bars in America”, where he was “shanghaied”. I did not have a clue what that was. You may not either – google it! It literally means to “force (someone) to join a ship lacking a full crew by drugging them or using other underhanded means”. This happened to him and he woke up on a ship in the Bering Sea without remembering how he got there. A testament to his character, he stayed and did the work; even as his mom worried and wanted to buy him a ticket home.
The stories were amazing and enlightening and sad as well. But it was super cool getting to know him!
Then we were off! A brief intro to the snow-machine and we hit the trail. Well, first a road. What a fantastic experience! The trip lasted about an hour and we traveled through some trees and trails and some wide open spaces. We eventually ended up on the Chena Lake. Tony asked if we’d like to go out into the middle of it. “Is it dangerous” I asked. Nope – there are 3 feet of ice on that lake at this time of year. It’s where the ice fishermen go and you could see their huts. John and I said at the same time, “Let’s go for it”.
It was exhilarating and fast and so awesome. I smiled the whole damn time! And Tony was amazing the whole damn time. He’d stop us to take our pictures. He even laid down in the snow to get some that you see on this post. Thumbs up and high fives; we still felt like old friends.
I highly, highly recommend doing this tour with Tony – he made it GREAT!
We’d been in Fairbanks for 12 hours and had already realized how expensive it was to get transportation so after renting a car back and the airport we headed to downtown Fairbanks for some lunch and a look around.
We’d heard from both our drivers that there was a great Thai restaurant downtown so – contrary to me wanting “Alaskan” fare – off we went. The Thai House – and the food was incredible. Definitely worth a stop.
So regarding downtown Fairbanks….My mom has said many times that if you don’t have anything nice to say don’t say anything at all. So should I stop here? Perhaps so but I’m not going to on account of I want to remember and also tell you readers (all 10 of you!) so you’re aware. It just seems a bit rundown and depressed. It was a bit of a downer to even walk around.
We did stop at the Morrison Cultural and Visitors Center and that was pretty cool. A nice young man helped us with our many questions – best spots to drive to see the northern lights, where I can get a reindeer sausage, where to see the wicked ice sculptures, traditional “Alaskan” dessert (P.S. there isn’t one). And we wandered through the museum and learned about Fairbanks history.
We hit the Antler’s Arch on our way back to the car to check it off the list. As I said, disappointing. But I will do my research and make my way back there with more information in my back pocket. Hopefully that will change my mind.
We finished the day with a nap and a trip to the daily ice cream social in the Pike’s lounge. It’s 30 degrees – why not have ice cream right?! Then off to the Pump House for dinner – yep we had dessert before dinner – as all should. I have been wanting to try “local” Alaskan meat – specifically reindeer – since I’d learned we would be coming here. The Pump House was our spot to do so.
The decor of the Pump House was representative of the 1890’s Gold Rush area. Very ornate and over the top. Carved furniture and fringe lamps. And – they had both reindeer and elk on their menu. John and I split reindeer medallions and they were – delicious! I was expecting gamey and similar to venison but was pleasantly surprised. Another positive.
So the chance to the the aurora tonight is Low. And, unfortunately, the change is Below Average for the next 3 nights. But although I’m keeping expectations Low I’m keeping hopes Above Average 🙂